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Need Help Building A Utrasonic Cleanner For Print Head Dx4, Dx5

devahoch

SIGN MAKING COMPANY
Hi there.
I want to build a cleanner for my DX4 heads. For realization I have a pumps from nonused Mutoh RH II, Is completly pumps and tube connects, I want to make PUSH - Pull system for solvent cleaning fluid into heads.
I have a question for expert:
Utrasonic cleanner is 30-50W 40kHz, this cleanner is good for print head DX4, DX5 ?, this power is ok or is too much for print head.
For begin only foto pumps from Mutoh RH II, I must to build controller for stepper motors, foto late.
IMG_20170325_085107.jpg
 

Umca

New Member
Based on my experience, ultrasonic cleaners destroy DX4, DX5 heads.
Second issue - on your photo original pump system with step motors. You will need special controller for use this type motors.
So, you choice not so easy way...
 

devahoch

SIGN MAKING COMPANY
Based on my experience, ultrasonic cleaners destroy DX4, DX5 heads.
Second issue - on your photo original pump system with step motors. You will need special controller for use this type motors.
So, you choice not so easy way...
Thank you, Now I reading, that ultrasonic cleaner nohelp DX4, DX5 on Printhead recovery.
For pump I want to use those things, where I have on hands, I have a defect Controler board for steppers (5 axis and 1 is bad). Stepper motor have a more power than DC motor, I want to make with arduino microprocesor same cykles FLUSH, REVERSE FLUSH for cleaning. I leave out ultrasonic in system.
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
VanderJ,
Can you provide detailed instructions on how to soak the heads on an SP-300V?

I always make sure that the issue isn't being caused by bad or dirty maintenance parts. I clean everything really well and then replace parts if needed. Once I know that everything should be working properly and the clog persists, I move on to soaking. Normally I just use forceps to clamp off the cap top tubes being very careful not to clamp too hard. Then fill the caps with cleaning solution until it has a nice bubble above the edge of the cap top. Then I park the heads on the cap tops and leave them there for an hour at most. I also unplug the machine when I do this to avoid surprise cleaning cycles. I generally use a harsher solvent than what comes with the machine for this and the Bordeaux brand flushing solution has been working the best for me lately. When it's done, I unclasp the tubes and run a strong cleaning cycle. This hopefully will break free most of the clog. If I saw no improvement at all, I move on to flushing. If I see a little improvement I might do another soak but rarely as I don't usually get better results.

The proper way to flush a head is to hook a syringe to a new damper, then hook the damper to the head as normal. You push the solution through the damper and into the head. I prefer to lose the damper and hook the syringe directly up to the head using a soft tube. The I push very lightly until I see the solution bubbling out of the nozzles. I let it sit for about a minute so it can break up all of the dry ink inside and then push more through. I do this twice usually and then I push just hard enough to see solution spraying out of the nozzles. You can actually see which nozzles are missing when this happens. I don't ever push any harder than that and just let the solution flow until I see the nozzles recover. If they don't I replace the head. Keep in mind that depending on the age of the head and the ink you use, you will be successful about 50% of the time. The older the head, the harder it is to recover. Sometimes nozzles are just damaged beyond repair. Sometimes the piezo crystal has failed and that is impossible to fix. Sometimes the membrane between channels is broken.
 

Sign Works

New Member
I always make sure that the issue isn't being caused by bad or dirty maintenance parts. I clean everything really well and then replace parts if needed. Once I know that everything should be working properly and the clog persists, I move on to soaking. Normally I just use forceps to clamp off the cap top tubes being very careful not to clamp too hard. Then fill the caps with cleaning solution until it has a nice bubble above the edge of the cap top. Then I park the heads on the cap tops and leave them there for an hour at most. I also unplug the machine when I do this to avoid surprise cleaning cycles. I generally use a harsher solvent than what comes with the machine for this and the Bordeaux brand flushing solution has been working the best for me lately. When it's done, I unclasp the tubes and run a strong cleaning cycle. This hopefully will break free most of the clog. If I saw no improvement at all, I move on to flushing. If I see a little improvement I might do another soak but rarely as I don't usually get better results.

The proper way to flush a head is to hook a syringe to a new damper, then hook the damper to the head as normal. You push the solution through the damper and into the head. I prefer to lose the damper and hook the syringe directly up to the head using a soft tube. The I push very lightly until I see the solution bubbling out of the nozzles. I let it sit for about a minute so it can break up all of the dry ink inside and then push more through. I do this twice usually and then I push just hard enough to see solution spraying out of the nozzles. You can actually see which nozzles are missing when this happens. I don't ever push any harder than that and just let the solution flow until I see the nozzles recover. If they don't I replace the head. Keep in mind that depending on the age of the head and the ink you use, you will be successful about 50% of the time. The older the head, the harder it is to recover. Sometimes nozzles are just damaged beyond repair. Sometimes the piezo crystal has failed and that is impossible to fix. Sometimes the membrane between channels is broken.

My main concern was how to safely move the printhead carriage away from the capping station. Do I just manually move it to the left? Pinch tubes, fill cap tops then manually move the printhead carriage back to the cap tops?
 

Solventinkjet

DIY Printer Fixing Guide
My main concern was how to safely move the printhead carriage away from the capping station. Do I just manually move it to the left? Pinch tubes, fill cap tops then manually move the printhead carriage back to the cap tops?

I have a special tool that lowers and raises the cap tops when the power is off. It's like a small metal tube that is pinched at the end. There is a small hole below the cap tops that goes all the way through the covers. You can stick the tool up there and it grabs a screw that lowers and raises the cap tops. You could possible do it with a pair of pliers if they are long enough.
 

Sign Works

New Member
I have a special tool that lowers and raises the cap tops when the power is off. It's like a small metal tube that is pinched at the end. There is a small hole below the cap tops that goes all the way through the covers. You can stick the tool up there and it grabs a screw that lowers and raises the cap tops. You could possible do it with a pair of pliers if they are long enough.

Yup, got the tool, it came with the printer originally and that is exactly what I was wondering about.
Thanks, you guys (solventinkjet.com) are great.
 

devahoch

SIGN MAKING COMPANY
They don't work. Don't waste your time. If you can't recover the head by soaking and flushing with a syringe, it's toast.
Thank you Vander J.
Primary i want to soak print head, those heads still in printer and work daily. But my 1. head (black-Yellow) still have a very bad noozle on black channel, Usualy I clean with syringe, but I want to make a big soak with pump abount cc 10, 15 min, that I want to make cleaner, and hope this help.
Now I build only very simple, clenner, with pump and only pull solvent cleaning fluid from head, I want to make this, as I don't need to put down heads.
 
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