Could someone take a look at this nozzle check.

[damonCA21]

To add to what Jim said, after replacing the head switch to Jetbest inks instead of Roland. They seem to be a bit kinder to the heads.

 

[midnightmadman]

Not a helluva lot of difference between Roland and Mutoh on old DX4/5/7 head machines when it comes to things like parts to be honest. Older printers as well, expect to need more maintenance overall.

What’s easier to work on ? I’m comparing all this to a valuejet 1204 that I hated doing work on.

 

[netsol]

Now the big question is. I’ve always had value jets and did nothing but work on them trying to keep working properly. Anyone have both or had and how do they compare for repairing and replacing stuff like this and lines maintenance stations etc. are they similar or completely different. Are the Roland’s truly more resilient?

we have had a roland sc545-ex since 2016
go a vj1617h about 2.5 years ago

i find the rolands very easy to work on. (i am a former tech, though)

i still struggle to understand what was in the mutoh engineering team's head, when they made some of their decisions.

i wouldn't be afraid of the roland. i say go for it!

 

[Jim Hancock]

we have had a roland sc545-ex since 2016
go a vj1617h about 2.5 years ago

i find the rolands very easy to work on. (i am a former tech, though)

i still struggle to understand what was in the mutoh engineering team's head, when they made some of their decisions.

i wouldn't be afraid of the roland. i say go for it!

Agreed. For a comparison of simplicity vs engineering complication, look at the DX7 ink line to damper connection of Mutoh vs Roland. I absolutely detest the Mutoh part. I'm starting to suggest my Mutoh customers switch to the Roland version during a head replacement. Mutoh - stuff needed - needle nose pliers, new O-rings for ink line nut and patience for the PITA factor to remove it. Roland - stuff needed - finger and thumb, push ink line onto barb fitting, push adapter down on damper until it click locks. Squeeze click lock to remove. Easy peasey... Done...

 

[midnightmadman]

Agreed. For a comparison of simplicity vs engineering complication, look at the DX7 ink line to damper connection of Mutoh vs Roland. I absolutely detest the Mutoh part. I'm starting to suggest my Mutoh customers switch to the Roland version during a head replacement. Mutoh - stuff needed - needle nose pliers, new O-rings for ink line nut and patience for the PITA factor to remove it. Roland - stuff needed - finger and thumb, push ink line onto barb fitting, push adapter down on damper until it click locks. Squeeze click lock to remove. Easy peasey... Done...

Thank you. This helps me to decide on going with the Roland.

 

[netsol]

Agreed. For a comparison of simplicity vs engineering complication, look at the DX7 ink line to damper connection of Mutoh vs Roland. I absolutely detest the Mutoh part. I'm starting to suggest my Mutoh customers switch to the Roland version during a head replacement. Mutoh - stuff needed - needle nose pliers, new O-rings for ink line nut and patience for the PITA factor to remove it. Roland - stuff needed - finger and thumb, push ink line onto barb fitting, push adapter down on damper until it click locks. Squeeze click lock to remove. Easy peasey... Done...

all very true
i keep a set of metric ignition wrenches by each machine.
i find you are much less likely to break one of those nipples the damper sits on if you can give a very gentle twist with the wrench

but probably the best money you will ever spend is getting a replacement manifold so it is no big deal if you do crack one of the fittings