• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

Cutting substrate with mounted prints

DNH

New Member
Hi, We have to oval shaped signs with mounted printed graphics. So we would normally cnc cut the ovals out of alupanel, and then mount the printed vinyl to each individual oval pce.
Wondering if anyone has had any luck mounting the printed vinyl to the alupanel prior to cnc cutting?
We did a test and the vinyl is ragged/shredded along the edges.
 

Nickprints

New Member
What is Shredded? are you printing on vinyl, and laminating to the sheets? If so, We do this regularly. Print vinyl, lam vinyl, Mount to Dibond the route using Icut.no different than routing regular dibond
 

DNH

New Member
Thanks for you replies.
We are relatively new to cnc routing. I've attached a couple pics of the frayed edges. We used a Onsrud 63-618 bit relatively new.
Does the rpm and feed rate factor in? We cut this at 25000rpm and 200in/min feed rate.
These were test cuts with vinyl and laminate mounted onto alupanel.
DSCN2076.JPG DSCN2074.JPG
 

mkmie

Lost Soul
Just wondering if you removed the protective plastic film on the substrate? From the pictures it looks like the fraying is really the film.
 

WhiskeyDreamer

Professional Snow Ninja
Apply transfer tape to the vinyl. Apply vinyl to substrate. DO NOT remove tape. Route on CNC. Remove tape.

I would suggest doing a wet app and let it sit a day or two before routing.

I do this all the time on all sorts of substrates. Never had any issues.
 

signman315

Signmaker
Thanks for you replies.
We are relatively new to cnc routing. I've attached a couple pics of the frayed edges. We used a Onsrud 63-618 bit relatively new.
Does the rpm and feed rate factor in? We cut this at 25000rpm and 200in/min feed rate.
These were test cuts with vinyl and laminate mounted onto alupanel.
View attachment 137817 View attachment 137818
Old or incorrect bit, too slow feed and/or too fast rpm. If the bit is dull (happens pretty fast) then doesn't matter what you do you will get burrs. Too slow feed rate and the bit will continue to rub the already cut edge as it slowly moves resulting in burrs. Too fast RPMs will do the same thing, allow the bit to rub the already cut edge and raises a burr. So you want a pretty fresh bit, you want the fastest feed rate and slowest RPM possible without causing material shifts or bit breaks. If none of that is working then do a finish cut on it...i.e. cut the whole job but slightly larger than finished size (.02" or similar) and then do a second pass cutting to finished size. You can speed up feed rate and slow down RPM on finish cut because it's cutting such a small amount of material. In which case you would also leave a little "webbing" on the bottom i.e. don't cut the full depth on the first pass, leave a .02" or similar webbing on the bottom to hold everything together for the finish cut. This will help burring and also hold any small details in place for the finish cut. Since the webbing is so thin it won't cause any material shifts and is just enough to hold everything. You could also put transfer tape on the back side and just cut through the media leaving the transfer tape as the webbing. Hope it helps!
 

Broome Signs

New Member
hi

best way to stop the edges getting ragged is to use a revers spiral singel flute cutter, this pushes swarf down and away
unlike a normal cutter that pulls the swarf up and under the laminate

slow the cutter RPM down as much as you can, and adjust the feed rate also
do a lead in and lead out on the cut path, this will help on the finished shape
 
Top