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DryTac SpotOn - HP 700W - Profile advice needed

DPICopy

DPICopy

New Member
So, I think the biggest issue I've had with this printer is the lack of profiles. I have a large job to print on DryTac SpotOn Matte, but I'm having wrinkling issues while printing. I am currently using the DryTac SpotOn Clear profile, but when I started printing test pieces there is consistent separations of the material from the liner while printing. Does anyone have suggestions for what to change or what profile I could try? I dropped the temp by 25 degrees, turned the interpass to 500 and upped the vacuum but that didn't seem to have any effect. The weird part is that the wrinkles start before it gets to the printheads... Photos attached.
 

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P Wagner

P Wagner

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In general, tunneling is related to the adhesive on the back of the media. Is it possible that this might be an older roll of media with compromized adhesive properties?

What happens when you advance the media without printing (using the front panel movement arrows)? Does the media still tunnel? If so, it is not a profile issue.
 
DPICopy

DPICopy

New Member
P Wagner said:
In general, tunneling is related to the adhesive on the back of the media. Is it possible that this might be an older roll of media with compromized adhesive properties?

What happens when you advance the media without printing (using the front panel movement arrows)? Does the media still tunnel? If so, it is not a profile issue.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your reply! This was just a 10' sample roll we received a few weeks ago directly from DryTac, I guess it's possible that it had been in their warehouse for awhile? Unfortunately I can't test the advancing because I already ran out of roll. I'll order a full roll and cross my fingers that it was an isolated issue!
 
DL Signs

DL Signs

Never go against the family
If it's old stock it'll do that on just about any printer. If it's not, it's probably heat related. I've had that happen even with solvent printers, mostly with some low tack, cling material, or media that uses a plastic or PET liner (like window perf). On latex printers it can be more challenging because they use a lot more heat to cure. In most cases you can reduce the heat, doing that you'll also have to slow down the head speed, do more passes, etc, to keep it on the lower heat longer so it still cures (all the stuff that canned profiles do). When you find a setting that balances everything, save the settings for that material.
 
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