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Having trouble getting a nice double strike print.

PRS Bryan

Member
I have two printers and can't get a good double strike print out of either.

One printer is a HP 310 Latex printer using the Flexiprint HP Basic RIP. I can not find any option in the RIP that allows me to double strike a print. Is it possible with my RIP?

Second printer is VS-540 using Versaworks for the RIP. I can get the printer to double strike (or overprint) but the ink comes out with a cracked texture. I am using the PCV3 Profile on High Quality, Resolution 1440x720dpi, Sign and Display Preset for color management. My Print Heater is at 35 degrees and the dryer is 40 degrees. I have tried using different caned profiles and reducing the heat by 5 to 10 degrees but I am not seeing any significant change in the output.

The Vinyl is 3M 3650-114 clear.

Profiling is not my strength and my attempts at resolving the issue have been shots in the dark. If anyone can provide me with settings or advice, I would appreciate it.

Thank you.
 

printhog

New Member
my question- why the double strike? thats usually just for backlit work, and then only for spot color images..
 

PRS Bryan

Member
my question- why the double strike? thats usually just for backlit work, and then only for spot color images..

It is for a backlit sign, I end up making about 30-40 a year. I could get away with some color variation on this one, but without the double strike the image looks washed out when lit.
 

PRS Bryan

Member
I would suggest trying a 720x720 profile to begin with, the visible loss in quality will be minimal or non-existent - the cracked effect on the ink means it's laying down way too much for the media to handle. That vinyl I find is difficult enough to accept ink even with single pass.

Heat settings - more the merrier. Try going up, instead of down. More heat will help cure the ink faster. Plus since you're printing on cast film you shouldn't have to worry about shrinkage due to too much heat and ink. (within reason)

Head speed - turn your head speed down to say, 400/500 mm/s and see if that gives the ink a better chance of curing.

.

This worked very well. Thank you for taking the time to explain the process.
 

Chriswagner92

New Member
If you don't mind using a lot of material you could layer the print. Print a single pass on clear, then another print on translucent over that will give you the solid print of a white vinyl, and doesn't get too washed out when lit either.
 

MikePro

New Member
If you don't mind using a lot of material you could layer the print. Print a single pass on clear, then another print on translucent over that will give you the solid print of a white vinyl, and doesn't get too washed out when lit either.

+1 double-LAYER, not double-strike. we gave up double-striking ink nearly a decade ago, due to muddy prints in the daytime & greasy/wet prints that didn't want to laminate properly.

solution: Clear vinyl print with white trans. vinyl print overlay, or Clear print applied to face with mirror'd clear print applied to reverse-side of a white polycarb/acrylic panel.
can do it either way.

but doing it RIGHT, should be the standard. IMHO, double-striking ink on prints is a waste, since it looks awful 50% of the day...so you may as well just single-strike, save ink/headache, and simply let it look awful at night instead ...if you're looking to save $$$ on material/effort.
 

PRS Bryan

Member
I have in the past used the two layer method and continue to use it on smaller backlit signs. On larger signs I have had trouble getting the prints to line up. This sign is 60"x70" that will be 25' in the air. I am a one-man shop but with another set of hands I may have more success with the two layer method on the larger signs.

The quality on the print was very nice using the method RPJW described. The edges are crisp and colors solid. The print was dry to the touch and the greasy sheen was gone in a couple of hours. The only minor issue is the dust on the print, but that is more about having a shop surrounded by gravel roads than anything else.

The extra material does not bother me as much as the extra time it takes. For this specific application using the double strike was an ideal solution.
 

MikePro

New Member
agreed, won't knock double-striking if the situation allows it, &alignment is a pita on larger signs.
that's why i love the front/back method, as the diffusal of light between the back to front of a lexan/acrylic panel allows room for error.
 
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