How do you deal with excess vinyl?

[bob]

I seldom do anything but flat, or reasonably flat, work so humor me.

Things were slow so I thought I'd opt a couple of printed panels on the hood of my truck. The area was reasonably flat but fell off into a compound curve near the outside front of the hood.

I didn't laminate these panels, merely clear coated them. Since the area was relatively flat I also masked them. Wrangling unmasked vinyl is not something I can do. Not that I can't do it well, I can't do it at all.

I had most of the panel down dry but when I got to this point I had more vinyl than surface area. The vinyl just naturally wanted to form rather large tunnels. I just keep messing around with this area with a bit of application fluid for a hell of a long time and finally got all of the tunnels worked out. Where the excess vinyl went remains a complete mystery to me.

The question being, how should I have handled this problem? I have a heat gun and a torch but, trust me, using a torch on vinyl by moi is totally out of the question. In general I thought heat was to stretch the media, not shrink it. I was desperately in need of the latter. Shrinking.

 

[J Hill Designs]

you mean you don't know?

 

[Circleville Signs]

I'll give you an answer, but you aren't gonna like it

1. Don't mask unlaminated wrap vinyl.

2. Don't wrap without laminated vinyl.

3. Don't mask laminated vinyl - you need to be able to work the vinyl.

Now, on to the heating question.

Heat does one of two things to wrap vinyl. When the adhesive has not been activated, it SHRINKS the vinyl (returns it to it's original memory state). This is why you need to NOT mask the vinyl. Once it cools, you can work it to where it needs to go, re-heating as necessary. Once the adhesive has been activated, heat will RE-SET the memory of the vinyl into it's new position, as long as it hasn't been stretched beyond all hope.

A few questions - when setting the hood, did you do it in one piece? If so, you should have had a couple sets of hands in order to fully remove the backing and then drape it over the hood in position. Once that Is done, use the side of your fist to set a spot close to the middle of the hood, and work your way out to the sides. As you get to the edges, start heating up the vinyl and stretching it to work around the compound curves near the edge.

you will end up with some seriously bunched vinyl if the hood is one of those crazy ones, but you can trim that off with no problem.

 

[HulkSmash]

you mean you don't know?

LOL took the words right out of my mouth.

 

[Gino]

Based upon bob's opening statements, I highly doubt he used air release vinyl. That's probably the key element here.

When using regular digital media for this kind of application, it doesn't want to conform to compound curves. Also, this type vinyl with the added solvent ink without laminate will make the vinyl stretch like crazy, just on its own. So, combining media already difficult to do this function, lack of proper tools and elements, mixed with your level of familiarity, you're gonna get a royal fubar.

Call it quits, have a sip of Cognac, a toke on your favorite stogie and try again another day.

 

[signage]

1. Don't mask unlaminated wrap vinyl.

2. Don't wrap without laminated vinyl.

3. Don't mask laminated vinyl - you need to be able to work the vinyl.

Now, on to the heating question.

Heat does one of two things to wrap vinyl. When the adhesive has not been activated, it SHRINKS the vinyl (returns it to it's original memory state). This is why you need to NOT mask the vinyl. Once it cools, you can work it to where it needs to go, re-heating as necessary. Once the adhesive has been activated, heat will RE-SET the memory of the vinyl into it's new position, as long as it hasn't been stretched beyond all hope.

A few questions - when setting the hood, did you do it in one piece? If so, you should have had a couple sets of hands in order to fully remove the backing and then drape it over the hood in position. Once that Is done, use the side of your fist to set a spot close to the middle of the hood, and work your way out to the sides. As you get to the edges, start heating up the vinyl and stretching it to work around the compound curves near the edge.

you will end up with some seriously bunched vinyl if the hood is one of those crazy ones, but you can trim that off with no problem.

+2

 

[Pat Whatley]

you mean you don't know?

Apparently Bob's thesaurus doesn't teach vinyl application.

 

[AUTO-FX]

Yeah, Gino, sounds like it wasnt digital media with any air release.
Bob, it could be as simple as starting at the front and working back instead of the other way around. The tendancy would be, of course.
Way back, a bodyshop had me come in and install replacement hood stripes on a Mustang GT.
The OEM vinyl was screened matte black ink on top of vinyl, and man, it did not like the idea of stretching to fit the modest compound curve, and I wrecked it. It wrinkled beyond recovery. I installed the second kit, starting at the front instead, with much success.
Wet, BTW.
Going from the curve to the flat gives you a bit of real estate to flatten out vinyl as you go.

 

[Circleville Signs]

I just can't imagine that it is a good idea to wet-install on a vehicle. Ever.

 

[AUTO-FX]

I just can't imagine that it is a good idea to wet-install on a vehicle. Ever.

Depends on the vinyl.
If you are using high performance vinyl to cut and apply, then wet is very appropriate in many circumstances.
I have "wrapped" large areas of vehicle surfaces with 2 mil high performance intended for cut vinyl lettering, and the only way is to float it on. You might try it sometime- it's fun!
If you are using any type of air release vinyl, then no, absolutely dry only.
Digital media without air release is ok too, as long as it has solvent based adhesive.

 

[megacab]

I just can't imagine that it is a good idea to wet-install on a vehicle. Ever.

in a wrap, i agree. but there have been many times i have striped one of the newer Camaros or Challengers, etc...and have done them wet.