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How to accomplish?

crny1

New Member
I am doing a wrap on a truck and I need some suggestions to see how to do it and if it is even possible.
The design is petina/rust, faded paint look at the front of the truck and then just before the bed it will transition to "new look" with graphics, crisp lines. The client is asking if its possible and how it would look if the forward (old look) could be laminated in matte finish and then gloss on the back part to help the look of old to new seem more convincing. Is this possible? It will be a complete side panel print. Is it possible to laminate in gloss and then lay knifeless tape and then laminate with matte while on the vehicle? Most cast wrap laminate is really thin so I can see this being as almost impossible if not REALLY hard to do. Any other options or ideas? Thanks
 

kanini

New Member
If you have a distinct transition e.g. a line or similar that divides the old from new then you can probably do them as separate "half wraps" and laminate accordingly. But a fade from matte to gloss is of course impossible so you need to make a joint where it needs to change surface type. So factor in that you can't make the whole side in one panel.
 

myront

Dammit, make it faster!!
I would be interested in seeing this approach. I like the sound of it. Maybe you could apply premask to one section and carefully cut the edge where the other lam will be. Then laminate, pull off the premasked area. The repeat again to the opposite. Make sense?
 

papabud

Lone Wolf
i would suggest just doing everything in a luster, its in between matte and gloss.
do a heavier ink on the "new" look area to give it a more vivid look.
 

RISEgraphics

New Member
I don't know how you'd manage to do that, but am intrigued on how it may turn out. Hope to see some pictures once it's been completed!
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
If you are capable of using a paint gun, I would laminate entirely in gloss.... or matte and then shoot the the opposite effect with a gradual fade from one into the other.

We did this many times back in the days of doing mural vans and other neat effects on signs. Your laminate/clearcoat can work wonders, especially if you can use liquid.
 

rjssigns

Active Member
Hmmmm...I'd laminate with the whole graphic with matte, install, then spray automotive clear for the transition. Matte lam would give some "tooth" for the clear.
I think this would work. Before the advent of digital printing I would airbrush on vinyl and clear coat. I'd also convert my own vinyls this way for plotting. Used HOK High Image clear back then. Looked the same wet as dry. Incredible stuff.
 

crny1

New Member
Thanks for the replies! As for a definite line to lay knifeless, no there wont be as the transission is kind of gradual.
I didnt think about automotive clear coat and have never tried it. Swinging a paint gun is no problem and have done it many times over including cars. In this situation I think it would be best to laminate in Matte and then clear the "new look" as it is actually a smaller area vs the old look area. Any suggestions on a clear that wouldnt cause problems with the laminate? I will use Avery 1105 and 1360 Matte Lam for the job. I just worry about automotive clear eating into the lam or softening it. We normally use PPG products when it comes to paint. Anyone have a product line they suggest for this?
Thanks.
 

AKwrapguy

New Member
Thanks for the replies! As for a definite line to lay knifeless, no there wont be as the transission is kind of gradual.
I didnt think about automotive clear coat and have never tried it. Swinging a paint gun is no problem and have done it many times over including cars. In this situation I think it would be best to laminate in Matte and then clear the "new look" as it is actually a smaller area vs the old look area. Any suggestions on a clear that wouldnt cause problems with the laminate? I will use Avery 1105 and 1360 Matte Lam for the job. I just worry about automotive clear eating into the lam or softening it. We normally use PPG products when it comes to paint. Anyone have a product line they suggest for this?
Thanks.

Not sure if this would work but.....

Laminate the whole thing in gloss. Use your plotter to cut the matte lam you need, weed and premask it. Lay your graphic down on a your table and line up the matte lam where you need it. Apply the matte lam.
 

rjssigns

Active Member
Thanks for the replies! As for a definite line to lay knifeless, no there wont be as the transission is kind of gradual.
I didnt think about automotive clear coat and have never tried it. Swinging a paint gun is no problem and have done it many times over including cars. In this situation I think it would be best to laminate in Matte and then clear the "new look" as it is actually a smaller area vs the old look area. Any suggestions on a clear that wouldnt cause problems with the laminate? I will use Avery 1105 and 1360 Matte Lam for the job. I just worry about automotive clear eating into the lam or softening it. We normally use PPG products when it comes to paint. Anyone have a product line they suggest for this?
Thanks.

I've sprayed different types of clear over laminated and unlaminated vinyl with no failures. Sent out a lot of motorcycle tank graphics that got cleared over and I had no idea what they used, but it must have worked. No call backs stating there was a failure.

Best thing is to test a printed/laminated sample. "Bury" it in whatever clear you have in your shop. Check every few hours.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
I've always found, spraying what I call a dry coat, first. After that, another dry coat. It almost acts like a sealant. Then, you can clear til the cows come home. Some call it a misting.
 

letterman7

New Member
I've always found, spraying what I call a dry coat, first. After that, another dry coat. It almost acts like a sealant. Then, you can clear til the cows come home. Some call it a misting.
Yep! Though I usually do that directly on the print and not worry about the overlam. I'll use just about any quality 2 part automotive clear.
 

#racewraps

@printwithspeed
If you have a distinct transition e.g. a line or similar that divides the old from new then you can probably do them as separate "half wraps" and laminate accordingly. But a fade from matte to gloss is of course impossible so you need to make a joint where it needs to change surface type. So factor in that you can't make the whole side in one panel.


This is exactly what I was going to suggest, seems most reasonable.

Please share your method & results when it’s done though, would like to see it!
 
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