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How Would You Make These Signs?

rdm01

New Member
We do numerous signs that go in public areas that have the rules of the site listed. Most are two color cut vinyl on DiBond. We clear coat them to protect from vandals and general weathering of the signs. I recently got some feedback that the DiBond isn't cutting it in some locations, and is getting beat up too quickly. My first thought is solid Aluminum, 1/8" or equivalent, painted, lettered, and cleared. Is that the most durable way to go?

For some signs there is a full color section, a map on the sign. Clearing over the cut vinyl had been fine, but I haven't yet cleared over printed and laminated vinyl, and don't know if I would trust that.

The only other option that I can think of it to print the whole thing, use graffiti lam and adhere that to the aluminum, but the client has really come to like the quality of the cut vinyl with digitally printed portions of the signs only where necessary. They are in the process of going through old signage, and much of the printed signage from before has faded and looks prematurely weathered. A bright red cut vinyl is much more colorfast than a printed red.

How would your shop create a two color cut vinyl sign that is stronger than DiBond, vandal proof, and last years. What if there was a portion that was full color?
 

SightLine

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Do the whole as a print, mount second surface to clear 1/4" thick acrylic with optically clear permanent mounting adhesive, then again using permanent double mounting adhesive mount that to some 1/4" thick aluminum. Trim the outside with aluminum C channel. Near bulletproof signs.
 

rdm01

New Member
090 aluminum, base coat auto with vinyl lettering and high solds urethanes clear

That is what I am thinking, but what about the small area that needs a digital print. Apply that over the clear, so it can be changed out over time, or under the clear? I know that 3M cut vinyl works fine under the clear, but what about something like IJ180?
 

Pat Whatley

New Member
Fiberglass
Americanfibertech

Man, I never understood why that stuff wasn't more readily available at sign suppliers. The stuff they sell that has a corrugated core is almost indestructible. We had a 2' x 3' sample of it that I gave to my nephew to throw baseballs at. The panel has been hit with baseballs a few thousand times now and has one small corner knocked off, the rest of the panel is flat as new.
 

John Butto

New Member
Man, I never understood why that stuff wasn't more readily available at sign suppliers. The stuff they sell that has a corrugated core is almost indestructible. We had a 2' x 3' sample of it that I gave to my nephew to throw baseballs at. The panel has been hit with baseballs a few thousand times now and has one small corner knocked off, the rest of the panel is flat as new.
I use it all the time in specs, the way the economy is going they steal aluminum, and the lines at recyclers are long with every kind of signs in the back of the pickups. Sand and put epoxy prime and topcoat and the stuff is great. Use regular tools that you fabricated wood to cut. Comes in colors also. A lot of Highway signs are spec for it.
 

Commando

New Member
Man, I never understood why that stuff wasn't more readily available at sign suppliers. The stuff they sell that has a corrugated core is almost indestructible. We had a 2' x 3' sample of it that I gave to my nephew to throw baseballs at. The panel has been hit with baseballs a few thousand times now and has one small corner knocked off, the rest of the panel is flat as new.

Because it is not approved for roadway use I would imagine. Any MUTCD sign that is. I have a few customers that still use that for street name signs and that stuff cost more than our 080 aluminum! Doesn't get stolen but it is still illegal to the DOT
 

MikePro

New Member
Rules change, lists need updating, and a print will last until there's a need for another.
+1 to second-surface print on thick acrylic plaque mounted with tamper proof stand-offs.
 

visual800

Active Member
That is what I am thinking, but what about the small area that needs a digital print. Apply that over the clear, so it can be changed out over time, or under the clear? I know that 3M cut vinyl works fine under the clear, but what about something like IJ180?

if you predict change place on top sir
 
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