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HP L26500 Latex - Prints are out of square/skewed.

SignProPlus-Chip

New Member
We are printing some larger signs, about 3x5' and they are out of square. Measurements along the width of the printing are dead on, but the length on one side is about .375" short.

I googled online, but I cannot seem to find anything regarding it.

What can cause this an is there an adjustment for this?
 
As I understand your post, the deviation is in the media feed direction (versus the carriage scan direction). This can occur due to variations in the thickness of various medias, and how those medias are being moved by the media transport system in the printer.

Many RIPs have tools that can be used to compensate for this. Onyx for example has a function called Scale Adjust which can be used to compensate for size variations in either direction, when printing on a specific media product. It is located in the Media Manager application > Media Library > Choose Media > Choose Print Mode > Edit button > progress through to the Basic Print Mode Settings screen, where the control is located.
 

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What type of media are you printing onto (banner vinyl / self-adhesive vinyl / polyester film / paper / etc) when this occurs?

I have certainly encountered bowing on SAV and significant media deformation on banner vinyl, but I have never seen inconsistent sizing (left vs right side). Any additional information you can provide could be helpful.
 

SignProPlus-Chip

New Member
Oracal 3651 SAV

600DPI
Temps are 55/100
12 pass low ink bi directional

We just got the printer running about a week ago, still trying to dial in all of the profiles etc..
 

AF

New Member
Oracal 3651 SAV

600DPI
Temps are 55/100
12 pass low ink bi directional

We just got the printer running about a week ago, still trying to dial in all of the profiles etc..

I print at 10p and 105 cure without the issue you describe on that material. Are you using the take-up?
 

SignProPlus-Chip

New Member
On this particular print, no, no take-up But I do use it when I have to gang a bunch of prints together.

My 10pass at 600 dpi gives me inconsistent banding....a field of color will print solid, then abnd a bit, solid, then band etc... 12 pass comes out flawless. Any ideas on that?



I print at 10p and 105 cure without the issue you describe on that material. Are you using the take-up?
 

chafro

New Member
You are probably dropping to much ink or need to restrict inks better to print at that speed. HP profiles use 2 much ink.

I print vinyl at 8 pass flawlessly.
 

SignProPlus-Chip

New Member
What profiles are you using? What vinyl etc?

I created a custom profile because the default HP and Oracal ones were WAY oversaturated...I still had a wet print at 8 pass.

Right now my profile is set up as 1200dpi but I run it at 600dpi. Seems the 1200dpi profile setting drops far less ink. Before this I was having to run at 18 pass, so now getting down to 12 seems to be an improvement.

I have read that about 8 pass is average, but at 600 DPI I either get too grainy of an image or intermittent banding.

ANy settings or profile you could recommend trying would be great.



You are probably dropping to much ink or need to restrict inks better to print at that speed. HP profiles use 2 much ink.

I print vinyl at 8 pass flawlessly.
 
HP Latex ink is a fundamentally different chemistry than any solvent ink-set. With HP Latex ink in the L250 and L260 machines, the evaporation and curing are entirely environmentally induced reactions that must take place inside of the printer. The ink-set used in the Latex 300 series are a bit different from the previous machines in that they added a pre-treatment to the ink-set (Optimizer).

The addition of heat to the environment is essential for the L260. Heat is applied in two areas of the printer, in the print zone, and in the curing zone. The print heater's job is to evacuate the water content from the ink. The curing heater's job is to melt the latex polymers in the ink into a shell that encases and protects the pigments. If either heater does not do it's respective job, then print artifacts of various types will result. Wet ink, oily ink (rewetting), coalescence, ink bleed, etc. If too much heat is applied for the specific media, other issues can result, depending on the media. These can include physical deformation, bowing, head (carriage) strikes, size deviations, and more.

In short, not enough heat (or time) = ink issues, too much heat = media issues.

HP has published a chart that describes the recommended minimum pass counts for the various media classes. That chart is attached.

PVC Banner minimum = 8 pass
SAV minimum = 10 pass
Textile minimum = 12 pass
Coated paper minimum = 6 pass

See the attached PDF for more info. The chart is valid for the Latex 2 series (L25 and L26) only. The 300 series have very different pass count minimums and recommendations.

When it comes to drying the ink, there are several things that can be done:
1. Add heat in the print and/or curing zones
2. Give the heaters more time to do their jobs. This can be done by:
a) increase the pass count
b) introduce an inter-pass delay between the passes (this is highly effective)
c) reduce the amount of ink being applied (less ink = easier to dry & cure)
 

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AF

New Member
On this particular print, no, no take-up But I do use it when I have to gang a bunch of prints together.

My 10pass at 600 dpi gives me inconsistent banding....a field of color will print solid, then abnd a bit, solid, then band etc... 12 pass comes out flawless. Any ideas on that?

You should have excellent print quality with the following settings:

10 pass
600 dpi
2B
Bidirectional

Banding can be caused by numerous settings being off or by failed / failing components on the printer. Some settings that can cause banding are temperature, airflow, tension and vacuum. Intermittent banding could possibly be related to a dirty / faulty IR sensor, dirty / faulty OMAS sensor, dirty / faulty line sensor. Periodic print defects could also be from bad / expired media, but seems unlikely here.

12 pass gives the machine 20% more time to dry the ink before it hits the curing unit as compared to 10 pass. This would lead me to believe that your 10 pass profile needs to be modified for more airflow, more heat and/or less ink.

Adding an interpass delay on the front panel can help if the heaters are getting old.
 
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