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Pearlljelly

Pearlljelly
My shop purchased a HP 800W and I am not excited from all the reviews. Is there anything to look out for? What IS good about it? Will I be able to print reflective media or transparent? We do a lot of decals and like to try out different materials like window clings, reflective, laminated; how does those materials print? I'm being switched over to it from an Epson R5070 because of the white ink capability :(
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
It's fine, just short jobs make a lot of waste. 700 or 630 would have been better on that.
But since you are getting 800 I guess it's for using so longer runs probably.
 
My shop purchased a HP 800W and I am not excited from all the reviews. Is there anything to look out for? What IS good about it? Will I be able to print reflective media or transparent? We do a lot of decals and like to try out different materials like window clings, reflective, laminated; how does those materials print? I'm being switched over to it from an Epson R5070 because of the white ink capability :(
To minimize lead edge waste on short runs, use the (included) media feed tool. Lead edge waste when using the tool is about 8 inches. Here is a link to a video that covers how to use the Media Feed Accessory:
 

Pearlljelly

Pearlljelly
I can tell you in production nobody uses that. They attach to takeup, hit print and walk away to do other things.
I was hoping to, I run shorter jobs where I print and cut. I have a takeup reel on the Epson and rarely use it, would I need to start using it for the HP?
 

Jake Indiana

New Member
Hey, I'm on my second 800W and I would strongly warn against getting one. I'm on my second because we had so many problems with the first that HP replaced it. I'm now out of warranty on the replacement and looking at $2200 to have a tech come fix it because 4 of the printhead ports won't work properly no matter how many new printheads are put in it. To answer some of your questions, it will print reflective but it really doesn't like thicker media. I've crashed it probably 50 times trying to get reflective through it. Theres a good amount of waste if you print a lot of short jobs because they recommend you attach to the take up reel (4-5ft) or at minimum advance into the curing module (1.5ft). Reflective likes to stick to the top of the curing module, bunch up in the print area and crash the carriage. When you can get it to work its a somewhat nice machine but here's a list of my fixes:

Faulty printheads during installation of printer
Trailing Cable wire came unattached
Detached the cutter and dropped it down the outside housing
Trailing Cable broke
Motherboard short circuited
Ink lines leaked and pooled in the housing
Ive never been able to fix banding in certain colors and printhead alignment issues.
Problems with the electrical connections with the printheads.
Add to that 100 crashes (some my fault, most not) and 40 replaced printheads (maybe 20 replaced through warranty)

Now I have to find my boss and ask him if he wants to pay to fix it to which he'll reply he'd rather smash it with the forktruck. Hope this info helps.
 

Pearlljelly

Pearlljelly
Hey, I'm on my second 800W and I would strongly warn against getting one. I'm on my second because we had so many problems with the first that HP replaced it. I'm now out of warranty on the replacement and looking at $2200 to have a tech come fix it because 4 of the printhead ports won't work properly no matter how many new printheads are put in it. To answer some of your questions, it will print reflective but it really doesn't like thicker media. I've crashed it probably 50 times trying to get reflective through it. Theres a good amount of waste if you print a lot of short jobs because they recommend you attach to the take up reel (4-5ft) or at minimum advance into the curing module (1.5ft). Reflective likes to stick to the top of the curing module, bunch up in the print area and crash the carriage. When you can get it to work its a somewhat nice machine but here's a list of my fixes:

Faulty printheads during installation of printer
Trailing Cable wire came unattached
Detached the cutter and dropped it down the outside housing
Trailing Cable broke
Motherboard short circuited
Ink lines leaked and pooled in the housing
Ive never been able to fix banding in certain colors and printhead alignment issues.
Problems with the electrical connections with the printheads.
Add to that 100 crashes (some my fault, most not) and 40 replaced printheads (maybe 20 replaced through warranty)

Now I have to find my boss and ask him if he wants to pay to fix it to which he'll reply he'd rather smash it with the forktruck. Hope this info helps.
Wow that's pretty much what I expect ! They already bought it so it will be their loss but it's my unlucky self that will be using it. How many spare printheads do you recommend having around? Does every little print head strike actually make you change the heads? The problem I have in our shop is humidity. We have about 60-80% every morning till I get the dehumidifiers running and its been causing materials to wave so we are switching to a thicker material, which sounds like it doesn't go too well, especially the reflective which we want to do a lot of :noway: I've told them about having to use the take-up reel too since we do smaller jobs or sample rows and they sent back this (
) video on how to mickey mouse it ! I've been avoiding/dreading this machine since they told me they got it. I printed out specs and did my own research on the best printers at the best cost for what we do and they went with the HP which wasn't an option for a reason. I've accepted it but let me tell you, when it breaks down like I know it will, I will be saying "I told you so" every chance I can! :toasting:
 

Jake Indiana

New Member
Wow that's pretty much what I expect ! They already bought it so it will be their loss but it's my unlucky self that will be using it. How many spare printheads do you recommend having around? Does every little print head strike actually make you change the heads? The problem I have in our shop is humidity. We have about 60-80% every morning till I get the dehumidifiers running and its been causing materials to wave so we are switching to a thicker material, which sounds like it doesn't go too well, especially the reflective which we want to do a lot of :noway: I've told them about having to use the take-up reel too since we do smaller jobs or sample rows and they sent back this (
) video on how to mickey mouse it ! I've been avoiding/dreading this machine since they told me they got it. I printed out specs and did my own research on the best printers at the best cost for what we do and they went with the HP which wasn't an option for a reason. I've accepted it but let me tell you, when it breaks down like I know it will, I will be saying "I told you so" every chance I can! :toasting:
Ha, that video brings back memories. I tried a similar thing but used that ends of old rolls, the remaining 4-5ft, and taped that on. It's a great way to get tape stuck in the curing zone. I have had the most luck with the weighted cloth (that NOW comes with every new machine). I didn't have that for the first year. I keep it folded up on top of the machine so I can pull it down over the window and attach it, drop it on the ground and spool it back into the curing module. Its just a pain to have that step with every material change or new print but it does save a lot of material and other hassles.
As far as crashing heads, I've only had to replace maybe 2 or 3 heads due to crashes. Usually the material bunches up enough that it hits the side of the print carriage. I've replaced printheads for a lot of miscellaneous reasons.
Currently my 800W isn't connecting to the printheads properly. I've replaced 6 printheads in the last 2 weeks until I realized there's a bigger problem. I've run about 10 force drop detections in the last 2 days and it tells me more printheads are out each time. The 1 year warranty is definitely not long enough. I have seen people online that love the machine so maybe you'll have better luck than me.
 

balstestrat

Problem Solver
Ha, that video brings back memories. I tried a similar thing but used that ends of old rolls, the remaining 4-5ft, and taped that on. It's a great way to get tape stuck in the curing zone. I have had the most luck with the weighted cloth (that NOW comes with every new machine). I didn't have that for the first year. I keep it folded up on top of the machine so I can pull it down over the window and attach it, drop it on the ground and spool it back into the curing module. Its just a pain to have that step with every material change or new print but it does save a lot of material and other hassles.
As far as crashing heads, I've only had to replace maybe 2 or 3 heads due to crashes. Usually the material bunches up enough that it hits the side of the print carriage. I've replaced printheads for a lot of miscellaneous reasons.
Currently my 800W isn't connecting to the printheads properly. I've replaced 6 printheads in the last 2 weeks until I realized there's a bigger problem. I've run about 10 force drop detections in the last 2 days and it tells me more printheads are out each time. The 1 year warranty is definitely not long enough. I have seen people online that love the machine so maybe you'll have better luck than me.
Does it happen to be cyan/black printheads that you have issues with?
 

RabidOne

New Member
To minimize lead edge waste on short runs, use the (included) media feed tool. Lead edge waste when using the tool is about 8 inches. Here is a link to a video that covers how to use the Media Feed Accessory:
We made our own that is way easier to use for small jobs than that. Its a strip of banner with a couple of heavy duty alligator clips on the bottom for weight. Been using that for 3 years. Works great.
 

RabidOne

New Member
We are also on our 2nd 800w, just got a new one with a new flatbed. We lucked out on our first one as we had almost none of the problems other people did.
Some of the issues we did encounter: the side guides causing head strikes. The solution was to take them into the fab shop and stick them in a vice and bend the edges down. No head strikes after that.
The cable that connects the window to the sensor broke (bad design) so I had to resolder that.
We had a break in one wire in the main cable that connects the heaters to the board. Took me a day to trace that and resolder it.
We also had lots of size problems with tiling panels not lining up very well. So far not a problem with the new one.
We had a leaky White box of ink that caused a world of problems. We had a bad batch of Optimizer once as well.
There are some solid blues that seem to band on vehicle wraps no matter what we do, but 99% of people don't notice.
While that seems like a lot, we ran this thing constantly for 3 years and certainly got our money out of it.
 
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