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Laser Engraving: Problem with Fading/Discoloration

Ddave72

New Member
I have a Universal ILS 1275, great laser, but I'm having problems with certain media. When I engrave materials that reveal to black, I can't get the black any darker than a dull grey, which is causing some major headaches.

Laser details:
Universal Laser Systems ILS 1275, 48" x 24", 50w CO2, external air assist. Less than one year old, awesome piece of equipment.

Material details:
Problems are arising mainly with Gravograph Gravoply, several different top colors, but all revealing to black. Also Rowmark brushed aluminium reveal to black.

Before you say it, switching materials is NOT an option... these materials & colours are specified by my Enormous State University client, and are non-negotiable.

Problem specifics:
After engraving & cleaning off the dust & residue, the revealed black portions quickly fade to a dull grey colour, rather than a sharp, crisp black. Polishing/wiping/washing with various chemicals, potions & unguents helps, but only temporarily. Eventually, it always fades back to grey.

Process details:
I've tried many, many, many different parameter settings on the laser, trying to find the happy combination that gets that perfect cut. I've managed to dial in some damn good recipes for most of my materials, but this black issue is blowing my mind. Also, don't know if it's relevant, but the Gravo in particular seems to have a much thicker top layer than the Rowmark, and I have to make two passes in order to get through it without heating the plastic so much that it warps & melts. The Rowmark engraves just fine on a single pass, either lightly etched to just below the surface layer, or much deeper to give a heavier relief effect. At any rate, I'm definitely getting through to the solid black underneath.

Cleaning details:
Firstly, I never (after a few nasty surprises) use any alcohol on my laser media, so THAT's not the problem. At present, my cleaning consists of a soft, dry brush to remove most of the dust, followed by a spray of citrus cleaner & a vigourous toothbrushing to get the dust out of the edges. Since the citrus crap (which is great, don't get me wrong) leaves kind of an oily residue, the final step is a quick wash with mild soap and water. The pieces come out looking great, the black engraving all dark & shiny as it should be, but after an hour or less, the black has gone grey.

I talked to a sales rep from Gravo yesterday, and asked if he had any suggestions, but the most he could offer was a list of laser settings in the Gravo catalogue (which is pretty effing useless to me, since they're all for a 35w laser, & mine's a 50w... if it was as simple as tweaking the parameters, doncha think I'd'a hit on that by now? I mean, I've tried lots of different settings...). The other thing he said to try was wiping the engraved piece down with WD-40 (!). 'Kay, I'm skeptical about that. Chemicals dry eventually, and won't it just fade to grey again, but maybe a little slower?

Conclusion:
Apologies for the long post, but I wanted to get as much info in here as possible, to help all you smartie-pantses out there come up with an answer. So what's it gonna be? Are my laser settings wrong? Is my cleaning technique killing the material? Is there some magic potion out there that'll remove laser dust & residue, while giving me the deep, deep black tones I so desire? Or am I just utterly f*ck*d like a duck?

I enthusiastically await reasoned and thoughtful responses. Hell, I'll even entertain hostile and childish ones if they offer a solution.

Thanks!
 

letterman7

New Member
How about a simple wash under running water and a brush to get rid of the debris? Why the need for any solvent at all? It's possible the citrus cleaner is getting into the pores of the plastic, but I'm only guessing at this point. Do an experiment - simply engrave a square or something on a piece of scrap and let it sit overnight. See if it's the same shade of grey you get after cleaning normally. If it is the same, then you know it's a material issue and not your cleaning. Are the exposed ends of the Gravo a dark grey or are they black? If it's black and your engraving is grey, maybe it's simply a matter of the heat cooking the material and changing the color. Take a piece and excise a part off the surface with a knife. Is it black underneath? If so, then you know that it's a process problem. How you eliminate that is going to be a trial and error deal. Personally, if the grey turns black when it's wetted, I would find a way to clearcoat the plaques and be done with it.
 

Ddave72

New Member
Well! Amazingly, the WD-40 thing seems to be working just fine: nice'n shiny'n black, like it should be.

Next question for you laserists out there:

What do you use to clean the ash & residue from your pieces when they come off the machine? As I mentioned above, I've been using the citrus cleaner ("Citrus Power Remover" by "MAX Professional") with decent results... except for the oily film it leaves, which makes me take an extra step of washing with soap & water.

I just ordered a bottle of "LAZRCLEAN" from Johnson Plastics ("...has been tested successfully on... residue... sticky edges on lasered plastic...") and I'm eager to see how well it works, or doesn't.

Has anyone had any experience with this product, or is there another one you might recommend? The most important thing for me, is that whatever cleaner I use does not contain any solvents that will attack the material. I pooched a batch of reverse-engraved, paint filled pieces the other day when the paint cracked the living sh!+ out of 'em... fun. Got me a brand new bottle of water-based acrylic paint now! Also, whatever I end up using to clean HAS to be able to get that nasty, sticky ash residue off.

The floor is open for comments, suggestions, ideas and abuse.
 

Baz

New Member
I use regular glass cleaner in spray cans to clean the residue off. Engraving Rowmark or Gravoply material is pretty much all i do with my machine (Gravograph 35w laser). Just finished off an order of over 900 apartment door number signs (brushed aluminum with black graphics). Scrapped just a couple of pieces and that was due to "human" error.
 

Ddave72

New Member
OK Baz, so have you ever had a problem like the one I described, where the black engraved part goes a dull grey after cleaning? 'Cos one of the materials I've had the most trouble with was the brushed aluminium over black... swabbing with WD40 afterwards does help, but it seems kind of a sh!t solution... treating the symptom, not the disease sort of thing.

cheers,
Ddave
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
When you say the gravoply material has a thicker top coat, are you sure your supplier has sent you the correct material? I've never seen a laser able material with a top coat thick enough to see from the side profile, it may be rotary engrave plastic. I've also never needed 2 passes to get through the top coat of laser material

for cleaning the dust off the top of the sheet, on tricky materials ( red face white core comes to mind) I mask the sheet with premask and rip it off again and it takes 99% of the dust with it.

as for the black not engraving a true black, I hear you, we've had these problems for quite a while now, most of our clients are industrial and don't really mind the colour, but if it is crucial, we have used wd40 or 3 in 1 oil on the plates to make them really shine.
 

Baz

New Member
Watson makes a good point. Is your material Laser compatible? There are different versions. I only need x1 pass to take off the top layer of either Gravoply or Rowmark material with my machine (35w).

I just use glass cleaner to clean off my markings .. If i have tough residue then i will use rapid remover. As far as not getting a rich black ... Depends on the lighting ... On my shop table at certain angles it does look greyish. But once the signs are standing upright they look really dark. And none of my customers have had that complaint either. They just complain about the price...
 

Ddave72

New Member
Ok, let's see...

JHill:
It's not that the material is "rated" for a 35w laser, just that Gravo's recipes are for a 35w laser, so they don't translate well to the 50w that I've got. It's kinda like trying to translate a european food recipe... you can't just call grams "ounces" and expect it to taste right.

Watson:
1) You are correct, sir! Much of this material is NOT "laserable," which is why I have to do multiple passes to get through that thick, thick top layer. Changing material is not an option though, as that stuff has been specifically spec'd by the client, and that's what they want, dammit.

That said, the stuff that's been going grey on me IS laser media, so go fig.

2) I hear ya on the red/white! Man, that red dust just gets IN there. My citrus cleaner & toothbrush have been doing an admirable job of dealing with it, but I hadn't thought to engrave through premask. Gonna try that today; will report on success or otherwise.

3) I can barely believe it myself, but the WD40 is working so far**. I have a piece I cut over a week ago that I put it on, and it's STILL BLACK! Amazing!

Baz:
Hadn't thought of trying rapid remover... that s#!+ cuts through anything! I'll give it a shot. I got a bottle of "LAZRCLEAN," but I haven't really tried it out yet. Since it doesn't have any nasty, evil solvents, it's probably gonna have to sit and work for a while (I'm impatient!), so I'll have to give it a chance to do its thing.

**AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!!
I know I just said the WD40 was working out well, but I just looked down at the piece I engraved less than an hour ago, and it's gone grey already! With the WD40 on it! This is seriously p!$$ing me off!

ANY ideas or suggestions will be considered!

Cheers,
-Ddave-
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
Ok, let's see...

JHill:
It's not that the material is "rated" for a 35w laser, just that Gravo's recipes are for a 35w laser, so they don't translate well to the 50w that I've got. It's kinda like trying to translate a european food recipe... you can't just call grams "ounces" and expect it to taste right.

Watson:
1) You are correct, sir! Much of this material is NOT "laserable," which is why I have to do multiple passes to get through that thick, thick top layer. Changing material is not an option though, as that stuff has been specifically spec'd by the client, and that's what they want, dammit.

That said, the stuff that's been going grey on me IS laser media, so go fig.

2) I hear ya on the red/white! Man, that red dust just gets IN there. My citrus cleaner & toothbrush have been doing an admirable job of dealing with it, but I hadn't thought to engrave through premask. Gonna try that today; will report on success or otherwise.

3) I can barely believe it myself, but the WD40 is working so far**. I have a piece I cut over a week ago that I put it on, and it's STILL BLACK! Amazing!

Baz:
Hadn't thought of trying rapid remover... that s#!+ cuts through anything! I'll give it a shot. I got a bottle of "LAZRCLEAN," but I haven't really tried it out yet. Since it doesn't have any nasty, evil solvents, it's probably gonna have to sit and work for a while (I'm impatient!), so I'll have to give it a chance to do its thing.

**AAARRRGGGHHHH!!!!!
I know I just said the WD40 was working out well, but I just looked down at the piece I engraved less than an hour ago, and it's gone grey already! With the WD40 on it! This is seriously p!$$ing me off!

ANY ideas or suggestions will be considered!

Cheers,
-Ddave-


Don't engrave through the premask, engrave normally, but premask the sheet after it's done, squeegee it down well and than rip it off and throw the mask in the trash, the mask will take most of the dust with it, than just re mask the sheet and cut them out normally.

Also, if these are colours you use often, both rowmark & gravograph will make custom sheets for you, there isn't any additional cost to do this, but you have to buy a "run" which is around 12-15 full sheets, so you can get the colours you need in a laserable product.
 

Ddave72

New Member
Don't engrave through the premask, engrave normally, but premask the sheet after it's done, squeegee it down well and than rip it off and throw the mask in the trash, the mask will take most of the dust with it, than just re mask the sheet and cut them out normally.

Also, if these are colours you use often, both rowmark & gravograph will make custom sheets for you, there isn't any additional cost to do this, but you have to buy a "run" which is around 12-15 full sheets, so you can get the colours you need in a laserable product.

Hmm... the dust on the TOP of the sheet isn't a problem, it's all the crap in the engraved areas. And I do engrave through the premask on certain media: acrylic, corian, wood...

As far as custom colours, my Gravo IS custom... something about the core colour only being available in non-laser blah blah blah... an explanation I inherited; I suppose I really should get on the blower to my Gravo guy and pick his brain some more.
 

CanuckSigns

Active Member
Hmm... the dust on the TOP of the sheet isn't a problem, it's all the crap in the engraved areas. And I do engrave through the premask on certain media: acrylic, corian, wood...

As far as custom colours, my Gravo IS custom... something about the core colour only being available in non-laser blah blah blah... an explanation I inherited; I suppose I really should get on the blower to my Gravo guy and pick his brain some more.

I'm not sure about the Universal lasers, but our Trotec machines have the option to engrave from the bottom up, so the smoke from the engraving doesn't stick to the engraved areas as it's being sucked up by the exhaust system, have you tried this?
 

Ddave72

New Member
I'm not sure about the Universal lasers, but our Trotec machines have the option to engrave from the bottom up, so the smoke from the engraving doesn't stick to the engraved areas as it's being sucked up by the exhaust system, have you tried this?

Yeah, I do that already. One thing I haven't really considered yet is the external air system... the thingy what keeps it from bursting into big, scary flames (yes, there's a story behind that, and no, it wasn't me. All I did was grab the fire extinguisher & put it out!).

Could the external air assist be blowing ash back down & embedding it into the freshly engraved areas? It isn't supposed to; in fact, it's supposed to keep all that crap from building up, right? 'Cos I'd sure hate to have to remove the nozzle for certain media, then put it back on for others. Not that it's a huge thing to do so, but even a small hassle will multiply over time...

-D-
 

Baz

New Member
For me ... Air assist can be assigned to a specific area (color selection). When i engrave i don't have it on .. But when it is cutting i put on air assist (or else i will get smoke and flames). Plus i always have the vaccum/blower going on at all times.
 

pgeorge777

New Member
Well! Amazingly, the WD-40 thing seems to be working just fine: nice'n shiny'n black, like it should be.

Next question for you laserists out there:

What do you use to clean the ash & residue from your pieces when they come off the machine? As I mentioned above, I've been using the citrus cleaner ("Citrus Power Remover" by "MAX Professional") with decent results... except for the oily film it leaves, which makes me take an extra step of washing with soap & water.

I just ordered a bottle of "LAZRCLEAN" from Johnson Plastics ("...has been tested successfully on... residue... sticky edges on lasered plastic...") and I'm eager to see how well it works, or doesn't.

Has anyone had any experience with this product, or is there another one you might recommend? The most important thing for me, is that whatever cleaner I use does not contain any solvents that will attack the material. I pooched a batch of reverse-engraved, paint filled pieces the other day when the paint cracked the living sh!+ out of 'em... fun. Got me a brand new bottle of water-based acrylic paint now! Also, whatever I end up using to clean HAS to be able to get that nasty, sticky ash residue off.

The floor is open for comments, suggestions, ideas and abuse.

Windex works well as a cleaner of smoke residue.
 
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