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Light Magenta - Not Showing Up

PurplePanther

New Member
Mutoh Falcon Outdoor 48'' Printer - We were having problems with cross contamination (yellow) so we installed a new Maintainance Assembly.

Once installed, we were still get some contamination, so we were told to try to flush the system out and do ink fill to make sure no ink in the lines.

Once this was done, cyan - light cyan - light magenta did not print. Looking at the dampers these were not filled correctly - they were low (we had never replaced the dampers before) so we installed 6 new dampers. After these were installed all the colors now are good except for light magenta, still wont print...

What could be causing light magenta not to print - even though it was working good before the flush? Looking at the new damper, it is not filling up with ink correctly....

Air in the line? Fuse? Etc?

THANKS!
 

artbot

New Member
when you say, not filling up correctly... are you filling the dampers with syringe, or via the pump/ink fill?

it's difficult to isolate on your machine because of the metal tubing. if you can somehow, you need to plug that light magenta damper/inkline into a functioning color position to see if you have good supply w/ bad vacuum, or bad supply w/ good vacuum.
 

PurplePanther

New Member
By "filling up" I am meaning through the pump/ink fill. method.

So are you saying to do a ink line/damper swap with a working color?
If this is done, would that contaminate the dampers?

FYI - When i try to manually pull ink through waste lines using syringe, i have a tight seal and can pull ink on one of the tubes but the other tube does not pull back tight and just get "air". (however when doing power clean, etc i get ink through both waste lines)
 

artbot

New Member
yes, filling up from the menu, rather than manually with a syringe.

well, when you are getting air, you are pulling way harder than the pump is able to pull, thus producing the air. i'd say that you have an air leak. but an air leak will also let the ink drift back toward the cartridges. when you get the damper looking filled. just let it hang for a few minutes to see if the level remains or goes down.

as far as contamination, you will not get much in the damper, the print head will be a bit contaminated when doing the diagnosis. but it can clear up easily with a few light cleans. damper swaps are the first measure to isolate the supply/vacuum question. after that if it is below, you can do a pump line swap as well to test good vacuum against bad vacuum. basically the damper swap leaves you with a lot of what it can be and what it can't be.
 
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