Need advice on trailer wrap technique

[50westgraphics]

First off, I need to clarify a few things. I didn't design the wrap and this is my first time doing a wrap. I typically just do cut vinyl, but I'm applying this for a friend as a favor.

Please don't flame me, I'm a complete novice on wraps. I know you guys know your stuff, that's why I'm here.

I'm having a terrible time on this trailer getting the top/top corners/sides to come out good. The corners are the worst part for me; I made relief cuts on them on this first side to make it cover and it looks like butt. I'm also getting severe wrinkles at the very top and some on the sides. The material is 3M Controltac (that's all I know; not sure what model it is). It has backing paper (obviously) and premask tape on top of it.

I've been applying the bottom section first and then applying the top using a bottom hinge. The only reason I'm using a bottom hinge is to make sure the 2 layers line up. Should I be peeling the app tape and backing paper off completely when I get to the top/corners/sides? I don't know what to do. It's so massive I'm afraid to peel it completely from the get-go.

Any advice on the wrinkles and corners would be UBER appreciated. I'll try to post pics:

 

[HulkSmash]

Is there a reason why your film is masked? Does it not have lamination?
I would remove all the mask if it is laminated, and if it isn't throw it in the trash, and reprint and use laminate.. no mask

 

[50westgraphics]

From what I can tell, it doesn't appear to. When I pull the mask off (assuming release paper is off too), that stuff is mega-thin. And stretches super easy, so I wouldn't think it's laminated unless they've sprayed it. I used some Oracal material that was printed before that clearly had a laminate on it, but this doesn't appear to.

I'd love to toss it in the bin, but he's paid for it already and I've already applied 20% of it. And this trailer will be in a garage when it's not actually out being used. I know the sun will fade it quick without laminate; will rain deteriorate it rapidly without the lam?

Let's put that aside for now, even though I know it's important, and work on the application. With the pre-mask off it tears very easily; like a hard card will rip it with too much pressure. I've never worked with material that is so thin.

 

[johnnysigns]

Is it liquid lam'd?

 

[Circleville Signs]

Unlaminated material + masking + complex/pseudo complex curves = Bad juju.

Reprint and laminate.

 

[50westgraphics]

Just by looking at it, I don't think so, but is there a way to tell? I have zero information from the print company; the soda manufacturer designed the wrap and sent it to print and they mailed it directly to the guy I'm doing the wrap for. The packing slip held no information, either.

 

[50westgraphics]

Should I attempt to remove the premask before installing the rest of this? Tossing it in the garbage at this point isn't an option. I'm afraid that when I peel the premask it's going to destroy the material, but now looking back I think it would be much easier to install without that layer.

 

[johnnysigns]

I'd install everything except the corners with the premask on. You can yank the premask with the corners uninstalled and work them down.

 

[HulkSmash]

if taking off the premask will destroy it, then yes it's not laminated. Tell your friend he demands a refund or reprinted with actual laminate.

He prob got it from Lowen

 

[Mosh]

I have installed stuff like this for beer and soda companys...they are meant for short term ad campaigns...apply as you are doing. Just heat the corner more and strech it over. This print is not meant to last more than 2-3 months anyway...in fact I think I installed one this summer that look like the same thing.

 

[50westgraphics]

I just got off the phone with the guy that actually printed it. It's 3M IJ180C with a clear coat. He said they premask everything just because that's what most of their installers prefer.

Does this change anything? I'm thinking about laying down the main flat panel (where the swinging door is) up to the hinge with the premask still on it. Then peeling it off and work it around the door edges and the curved sides/corners. Should I heat it and stretch it in the corners, then apply? Or just heat as I go to make it lay down?

Sorry for all of this ridiculousness, but I'm clueless to wrapping (obviously). The guy basically sent it my way so I could have the experience and see if it's something I want to do in the future and see what I could learn from it.

 

[Kwiksigns]

he may have also given it to you because if hew brought it to me, I would have overcharged, or told him I have to reprint. That wrap should take no time at all. like others said, put as much down with the mask, peel it off, heat and apply. Just do your best... your friend can't really get mad at you because you told him you have never done it before...

 

[HulkSmash]

I just got off the phone with the guy that actually printed it. It's 3M IJ180C with a clear coat. He said they premask everything just because that's what most of their installers prefer.

Does this change anything? I'm thinking about laying down the main flat panel (where the swinging door is) up to the hinge with the premask still on it. Then peeling it off and work it around the door edges and the curved sides/corners. Should I heat it and stretch it in the corners, then apply? Or just heat as I go to make it lay down?

Sorry for all of this ridiculousness, but I'm clueless to wrapping (obviously). The guy basically sent it my way so I could have the experience and see if it's something I want to do in the future and see what I could learn from it.

no one prefers clear coat liquid lam.

the only reason they want it masked is because liquid lam is a pile of garbage, and a cheap way to get it done. Ef. that.

 

[Mosh]

Ef. that.

Thought that said "ELF That" LOL

 

[SIGNTIME]

yea i've installed the same crap on a trailer for a local beer distributer wasn't to bad but it was also flat ... lay it down with the mask on all your flat surfaces, peel the mask before curves and try to strech the vinyl as little as possible

 

[Bly]

Looks like you walked right into that one.

Slap it on as best you can - job done.
If they complain about tears & wrinkles tell them that's the best you can do with that crap.

 

[SIGNTIME]

First off, I need to clarify a few things. I didn't design the wrap and this is my first time doing a wrap. I typically just do cut vinyl, but I'm applying this for a friend as a favor.

there's one mistake ... give it back the way it sits and tell him you get what you pay for

 

[LowenCertified]

Lowen did not print this. However, the vast majority of fleet and vehicle wraps are manufactured using liquid laminate. When applied properly to manufacturer specifications it is as durable and long lasting as a graphic with an overlaminate. It does however require some skill to apply correctly. This is why we only use properly trained and certified installers for our work. Coloradosigns, perhaps you should upgrade your skill set so liquid laminate doesn't present such a challenge for you.

 

[HulkSmash]

Lowen did not print this. However, the vast majority of fleet and vehicle wraps are manufactured using liquid laminate. When applied properly to manufacturer specifications it is as durable and long lasting as a graphic with an overlaminate. It does however require some skill to apply correctly. This is why we only use properly trained and certified installers for our work. Coloradosigns, perhaps you should upgrade your skill set so liquid laminate doesn't present such a challenge for you.

No thanks, i don't like providing my customers with trash, or installing it for that matter.

I've wrapped 100's of thousands of feet of fleets and will never use liquid lam, or release it in my shop. We install liquid lam stuff all the time for other shops. We like to provide a quality product. doesn't require "skill" It requires a punching bag cause the stuff is garbage to install.

thanks though.

 

[HulkSmash]

Lowen did not print this. However, the vast majority of fleet and vehicle wraps are manufactured using liquid laminate. When applied properly to manufacturer specifications it is as durable and long lasting as a graphic with an overlaminate. It does however require some skill to apply correctly. This is why we only use properly trained and certified installers for our work. Coloradosigns, perhaps you should upgrade your skill set so liquid laminate doesn't present such a challenge for you.

and also no it does not have the same lifespan as 8518. You should upgrade your research skills. I wrap transit trains, about 40 a month on some months. It's done with liquid lam. The stuff cracks within 6 months. Has nothing to do with how it's installed.