Need help with Roland SC-540

[Sheila Case]

Having some issues getting this printer up and running. Roland Soljet Pro 2 SC-540 We bought it without the heads. It had been sitting, without heads for about a year before we purchased it. We replaced the heads, caps, dampers, all 3 pumps and lines from caps to pumps. I was able to draw ink into the dampers but none at all past that point. Syringed waste tube coming out of the pump, nothing. Syringed lines between cap tops and pumps, nothing. Cap tops are still dry. Tested head board fuse and found that F2 and F4 are ok but F3 is blown. I did notice that the F2 & F3 are 72V 3.15A and F4 is 63V 3.15A , does that make a difference? It looks as if these may have been replaced prior to us buying the printer (see pic) I have ordered new fuses to (all SOC 72V T3.15A, which is what the service manual specifies). How would I also test the transistor and where on the head board will that be located? (I have also ordered new ones, just in case).



No errors after powering up (other than it's time for a wiper change, which I did but still get the "time for wiper change" error). I am able to do cleaning cycle, go through service menu, test print, everything but doesn't print anything on test print, just goes through the motions.

Service tech wants $400 min. to come to me to check it out (partly because of the area of Texas I am in), so I am determined to get this thing going myself if at all possible. Any suggestions would be most appreciated!

 

[woolly]

I was able to draw ink into the dampers but none at all past that point. Syringed waste tube coming out of the pump, nothing. Syringed lines between cap tops and pumps, nothing. Cap tops are still dry.

sounds like the cap tops are not sealing if you connect a syringe directly to the cap top pipe that should draw ink through the head if just pulling air then tops not sealing.
the tray that holds the cap top moves up and down to bring the captops to the head check the distance and that the alignment of the captop to the head, when the head is parked and locked to the right.

you can quickly check the pumps captops and ink supply by turning the pump motor spindle with the tube key used to manually lower the captop holder. then one standard clean will reset every thing and clear the waist ink, presuming you fitted the new style pumps


fuses another story

 

[ProPDF]

First off don’t touch the electronics until you can easily get ink flow.

Second flush your lines if the machine has been sitting that long. Let the solution sit overnight then pull flush through. Repeat this over a few nights. It’s common to have ink dry or sludge up the lines but won’t break free again until they are hit with fluid.

You don’t want to try and immediately fill the lines with ink cause you won’t be able to confirm the lines are really clean. If you just try to slap in ink your dampers will clog fast and or heads can too.

It sounds like you have a leak somewhere. If you can pull ink through to the damper but not the head as you say. Also don’t use those cheap aftermarket dx4 head manifold brackets. They suck and can actually damage your head. Use OEM head manifolds only. These manifolds can cause the head to not flow freely because they are super sensitive to torque.

Make sure your pumps are actually working also and that they are the newest pumps available as there was a upgrade for this model.

If you got to pull on the syringe post cap top and it feels locked I would bet either the damper nuts are too tight or you got bad manifolds tightend.

In regards to the head board. Add the replaceable fuse holders and start from there.