We just bought a new Mutoh 1624x. We have had a previous Mutoh 1604 for 7 years, so we are familiar. We just had it set up by the installer and he installed Flexi that came with the purchase. We had previously used Wasatch ( a newer version on the 1604 ) Wasatch told us that it was not compatible with the new 1624x. So flexi was installed and we started to print while the tech was there. Prints didn't look too good, and with some banding. He tried multiple settings in Flexi with some success, but not much. We tried Wasatch and it worked, ( Wasatch said it wasn't compatible) it even looked a tad better, but still not without problems. The tech tried multiple settings in each program, along with head high, head low, and multiple configurations. We tested on Oracal 3164 because we were going through so much product. He worked on settings for about 4 hrs and then at the end of the day he left, and said he would try to get more profiles. Tends to band mostly on blue at the beginning of prints and then tapers off. Multiple head alignment test were done while the tech was here, and everything was good. We now are printing today because we have a a lot of jobs to get done and just accepting it for now. Any suggestions on this while we are waiting for the tech to get back to us. Could be a week, who knows. I don't want to mess with it too much, but if there is a suggestion, please let us know...By the way, we didn't sign off for the acceptance yet for the new machine....Thanks for any input
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new mutoh 1624x banding
- Thread starter Angela
- Start date
Solventinkjet
DIY Printer Fixing Guide
Let's see some pictures.
Do you know if the tech did the PF adjustments? I know it sounds obvious but there are a lot of 'techs" out there who aren't as experienced as they say they are. The PF adjustment is done by printing out two lines 500mm apart and then taking the vinyl off the printer and measuring between the lines. Then you input what you measured into the printer for it to adjust. Then you print the micro adjustment which looks like cyan and magenta rectangles that look smoother and smoother as the setting is adjusted. If you didn't see the tech do those things, they might not have been done.
Other than that, it sounds like you could have some ink flow issues seeing as the banding fades away as you print. Usually it's the other way around though. It is not unheard of to get a new machine with a bad damper or print head. It's just rare.
Do you know if the tech did the PF adjustments? I know it sounds obvious but there are a lot of 'techs" out there who aren't as experienced as they say they are. The PF adjustment is done by printing out two lines 500mm apart and then taking the vinyl off the printer and measuring between the lines. Then you input what you measured into the printer for it to adjust. Then you print the micro adjustment which looks like cyan and magenta rectangles that look smoother and smoother as the setting is adjusted. If you didn't see the tech do those things, they might not have been done.
Other than that, it sounds like you could have some ink flow issues seeing as the banding fades away as you print. Usually it's the other way around though. It is not unheard of to get a new machine with a bad damper or print head. It's just rare.
printcleric
New Member
I do mine at 250mm instead of 500mm. Is there any benefit to performing the adjustment at 500mm?
chrisphilipps
Merchant Member
The longer the test print the smaller the measurement error will be.
As for the issue with the 1624X also make sure that you have put the correct media thickness into the User Type otherwise DropMaster Technology will incorrectly adjust your bi-directional alignments and cause banding.
GAC05
Quit buggin' me
I'm going to watch this thread closely. I have the same issue with my 1624x purchased a few months ago. Most notable in the blues. I upgraded from a 1304 and have not yet been overly impressed with the quality & speed over my old standby. With no local support I did the unpacking & setup and figured I must have gotten something wrong. Hopefully it is a setting or profiling issue that can be fixed.
My next step is to pick up the spectrometer add-on to see if I can eliminate some of the quality issues. I got along fine for about 8 years on the 1304 without one but times change.
Good luck and please post up any progress you make.
wayne k
guam usa
My next step is to pick up the spectrometer add-on to see if I can eliminate some of the quality issues. I got along fine for about 8 years on the 1304 without one but times change.
Good luck and please post up any progress you make.
wayne k
guam usa
Jeff South Florida
New Member
You will need to find out what he set the material thickness in service mode first. (i am assuming that he did not measure) You will want the user mode to match it. With this being said, it could be as simple as a feed adjust or heat settings. If you are printing on vinyl, use a Quality 4 high speed profile.
As for Wayne K. I'm not exactly sure where Guam U.S.A. is but it might be more beneficial to get someone with Mutoh service experience in there. While the spectrophotometer is a great tool, I do not think it will solve this problem
As for Wayne K. I'm not exactly sure where Guam U.S.A. is but it might be more beneficial to get someone with Mutoh service experience in there. While the spectrophotometer is a great tool, I do not think it will solve this problem
Solventinkjet
DIY Printer Fixing Guide
GAC05
Quit buggin' me
Might be cheaper for me to strap some floats onto the sides of the printer and start paddling for Japan or Australia.
I purchased the printer with the understanding that I would be the local support. I've got email back up from the seller but the support tech is not a daily user of the printer so it is not ideal.
I've done the measuring of the materials with a digital micrometer for the Dropmaster settings and gotten the PF adjustments dead on.
The light banding is still there
Hopefully the group think here on the forum will get me headed in the right direction.
wayne k
guam usa
Jeff South Florida
New Member
I was kind of thinking it might not be the correct location. My bad.
I would try printing using the quality 2 high speed profile. Change it to unidirectional and see if that helps.
I would try printing using the quality 2 high speed profile. Change it to unidirectional and see if that helps.
chrisphilipps
Merchant Member
GAC05 Did you do this in the Diagnostics Menu or in the regular user menus? Did you check the head Slants as well? If you didn't check the head slants and didn't setup Drop Master correctly in the Diagnostics Menu then that is most likely the cause of the issue. The printers never come perfectly calibrated from factory, they are bounced around in containers and trucks too much for that to happen.
GAC05
Quit buggin' me
I did not check the head slant - will go back and run the adjustments.
As for the Dropmaster setting I set it in Flexi's PM as part of the preset for each material. Would the printer override the settings coming in thru the RIP? All the other settings seem to take.
Thank you for the info, I'll see what turns up and post back here to help others in the same Mutoh boat.
wayne k
guam usa
chrisphilipps
Merchant Member
You have to check the head slants and then run the bi-directional alignments on a known media thickness in Diagnostics Mode for Drop Master to work correctly. Drop Master adjusts the bi-directional alignments based on the distance the ink has to travel to the media. If the printer wasn't calibrated in Diagnostics mode then Drop Master doesn't have a known starting point to make this adjustment and can actually make your calibrations worse. Flexi should override the Drop Master Thickness setting on the printer but we normally recommend that customers set it up correctly in the User Type when they do the PF Adjustment. In the User Type menu there is an option called Thickness, update it there as well to be sure it is set correctly.
Darion Judd
New Member
Hey, Fellas. We're having a issue with our 1624x. Did anyone find the source of the issue? We've replaced the maintenance station so far and it still seems to be doing the same old thing.
Hi Darion
can you upload any photo of the problem? Thank you Enviado desde mi Nexus 6 mediante Tapatalk
When that happens is usually because there is dirty between the damper and the head. You can suck from the top of the head (you can see which one fails on a nozzle check). Insert with a syringe a little of alcohol or cleaning fluid with very little pressure (nearly no pressure) Wait a minute and suck slowly until alcohol comes tinted instead of clear). Repeat several times if needed but never push much pressure when pussing that little fluid.
Enviado desde mi Nexus 6 mediante Tapatalk
CalverleyDesign
President - The Calverley Group
So I see this thread has been ongoing for some time with the 1624x - Has anyone found a good all around profile that works on 90% of all media?