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Painting Sintra
- Thread starter StarSign
- Start date
Pat Whatley
New Member
Krylon fusion as your first coat, although I know a couple of people who swear by just rolling latex on them.
TyrantDesigner
Art! Hot and fresh.
Krylon fusion primer is your best friend ... rub with 91% alchohol first, spray and done. then paint any way you want.
nwsigns
New Member
acrylics do work well, Ronan Aquacote sticks like mad.
We spray Matthews though - clean with Matthews plastic prep, prime with Matthews single part plastic primer and topcoat - works great.
Hardest part is dealing with the @#$@#$# static. I have a wire mesh panel I use and ground that which really helps. Clean the parts and let them dry but do NOT spray with air again unless you have an ion gun.
We spray Matthews though - clean with Matthews plastic prep, prime with Matthews single part plastic primer and topcoat - works great.
Hardest part is dealing with the @#$@#$# static. I have a wire mesh panel I use and ground that which really helps. Clean the parts and let them dry but do NOT spray with air again unless you have an ion gun.
Master's Touch
New Member
I just got through doing a dimensional piece and I just sanded and scuffed it before I did it. I used a combo of Krylon Enamel and Fusion. I had no probs with that. Years ago we did some exterior panels that I sprayed with just the plain Krylon, and with good surface prep, those lasted outside for years.
SignManiac
New Member
Our local Home Depot stopped carrying Krylon paints last week. All they carry now is Rustoleum branded paint. Rustoleum now has a spray paint that they claim is made to stick to plastic. I'll be finding out today.
Pat Whatley
New Member
The Rustoleum and the Valspar plastic paints SUCK compared to Fusion.
96XP
New Member
I used to use General paint high performance waterborne acrylic latex as a primer for large plastic pipes, the ones kids crawl through at McDonald's. Then air brush the theme onto that base as nothing else would stick.
Believe it or not, right after I sprayed the plastic parts with an HVLP, I would pass the propane bull-torch over the surface and it would vulcanize it. I couldn't scratch it, even when I stomped on it. (I have video somewhere as it was R&D for a client)
Might not be suitable for your application, but could be for other things?
- For interior and exterior surfaces.
- Inhibits mildew growth
- Exceptional adhesion
- Scrub resistant
More details here:
http://www.generalpaint.com/catalogue/Product/HP-2000.aspx
Believe it or not, right after I sprayed the plastic parts with an HVLP, I would pass the propane bull-torch over the surface and it would vulcanize it. I couldn't scratch it, even when I stomped on it. (I have video somewhere as it was R&D for a client)
Might not be suitable for your application, but could be for other things?
- For interior and exterior surfaces.
- Inhibits mildew growth
- Exceptional adhesion
- Scrub resistant
More details here:
http://www.generalpaint.com/catalogue/Product/HP-2000.aspx
Typestries
New Member
Benjamin moore latex, soft gloss works great. Thin about 10% + HVLP gun for a bulletproof finish. No primer needed. Before routing we usually 220 the full sheet, then clean each letter after routing with 91 iso. We've done a ton of club store and outlet malls this way. Not one failure yet.
Then there's regular rustoleum in the can or one shot. Thin 10% with MEK or Lacquer thinner. Again, no primer, it melts right in. Also works like a charm.
Then there's regular rustoleum in the can or one shot. Thin 10% with MEK or Lacquer thinner. Again, no primer, it melts right in. Also works like a charm.