Plywood primer

[bindercrazy]

I know for next time to get a sheet of d bond or alumi core. My problems is cutting curved shapes and straight edges with out hacking the edges up. Anyways i have a very short time to do this (this weekend)I have a 3/4 sanded one side birch piece of plywood and i need to prime it so i can put my auto air paint, HOK or OMNI over top of it. I only know these paints as of now and its what im going to use on this sign. My question is what exactly do i use to seal this plywood so i can use my automotive paints. base coat clear coat.
I was told to use a varnish or shellack.
I was told to use gripper
I was told to put a coat of clear

I am going to put the tight bond glue on the edges like read but i could really use some specifics if possible.
Thank you
Dave
Dave

 

[Tigertron]

If you have access to a hvlp spray gun (or buy a harbor freight cheapy) spray a filler primer and sand it smooth. If you don't care about the wood texture then sanding sealer or shellac will work.

 

[bindercrazy]

what filler primer would be good for wood. I have some good and some cheap spray guns so not a problem. I have adhesion promoter, i have 2 part primer and i have regular ready to spray primer all by omni/ppg. Not sure about wood though.

 

[bindercrazy]

I tried to get a hold of auto air and ppg for their omni paint to see if they have any suggestions of primer that wont cause any problems or reactions but no luck. Im thinking any water base exterior primer should be fine with auto air, and as far as urethane a poly urathane clear on the wood, then a light sand, and prime with acrylic urathane omni primer and continue with the base coat clear coat for a same system paint. I really wished they would have called me back because i needed to get this done this weekend.

 

[TwoNine]

I'd try some chromate-free epoxy primer (KP2CFA & KP2CFB) work well on wood with HOK paints. But good luck finding them this weekend! (Wish I could help more....)

-Chad

 

[bindercrazy]

Thank you Chad ill look and see if my epoxy primer is chromate free. If i cant find any primer i am half tempted to just use my shopline clear straight on the wood and go from there.

 

[Jillbeans]

Paint both sides with KILZ primer.
You can just use a good roller.
Be careful to get the finish as smooth as possible.
It may take two coats, if so, make the second coat in the opposite direction
(north-south over east-west)
Love...Jill

 

[Si Allen]

Be sure to sand the edges and get rid of any sharp corners! Just a slight rounding will make a difference whether or not the paint will endure. Sharp edges is where paint starts to fail.

If you are going to use those paints do not use any enamel based paints ... or they will lift on you!

 

[OldPaint]

Paint both sides with KILZ primer.
You can just use a good roller.
Be careful to get the finish as smooth as possible.
It may take two coats, if so, make the second coat in the opposite direction
(north-south over east-west)
Love...Jill

BOY... i just dont understand why some people have to take such a simple thing LIKE JILL POSTED........and turn it into a massive mess with all kinda other equipment and additives.
DO LIKE SI SAID, DO LIKE JILL SAID........i 3rd what they say between the 3 of us you got almost 100 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE...........that has worked for years before you was even able to eat with a spoon.....and not wear most of it)))))
KILZ OIL BASED ON RAW WOOD...........nothing better.
2nd choice ZINZER BULLSEYE.........shellac based, and more expensive.
TOP COAT: now you can do mostanything you want over the KILZ. my preferance was AUTOMOTIVE ACRYLIC ENAMEL, sprayed on like you paint a vehicle. but i had the spray guns and compressor, and painted cars...........so it was no big project.

 

[bindercrazy]

Thank you all. I have never painted wood alway metal. My biggest concern is it lifting off and wrecking all me aet work. Ive been reading alot of posts but nothing as detailed as you guys. Cutting the shapes now.

 

[bindercrazy]

Thanks for putting up with my stupid questions That really helped with how i was going to tackle this. I love how acrylic Urethane handles but the very toxic. I am slowly converting over to water base Auto Air. I found that the auto air has a better gripping power as far as taping graphics. I had a real nice flame job peal up when i pulled the tape away with omni plus but not with the Auto Air. The shopline clear i use seems to lay down and buff out nice too. Thank you all that posted and Happy Easter
Dave

 

[TwoNine]

Glad to hear it all went well....Happy Easter to you too...

-Chad