So I have a customer that needs push through acrylic letters on an aluminum face. The aluminum is no problem, we can do that. But when I make the acrylic, does the piece of acrylic have to be The entire size of the letters or is each letter it's own piece? Usually, we have these fabricated from a different shop, but the way this needs to be done, we have to get the acrylic done seperately. So, do I set the file to make each letter individually and glue them in or is the acrylic to be all one piece? I feel making it one piece would take forever for the router to make.
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push through acrylic face question
- Thread starter Kwiksigns
- Start date
Moze
Precision Sign Services
It can be done either way - just depends on the spacing of the letters and the amount of material you'll wind up using. Sometimes it makes more sense to do it as individual letters and sometimes it makes more sense to do it as one piece.
The most important thing is to fasten the letters so that they stay where they're supposed to be. VHB tape & Lexel, clamps, studs & nuts - there's a few ways to fasten them. Just don't plop some silicone on them and think they're going to stay - they won't.
The most important thing is to fasten the letters so that they stay where they're supposed to be. VHB tape & Lexel, clamps, studs & nuts - there's a few ways to fasten them. Just don't plop some silicone on them and think they're going to stay - they won't.
J Hill Designs
New Member
I usually hog out all but 1/8" of 1/2" acrylic leaving a lip 1/8" deep
the other way is to cut an oversize backer and use acrylic cement to adhere the fully cut letters to
the other way is to cut an oversize backer and use acrylic cement to adhere the fully cut letters to
J Hill Designs
New Member
clear acrylic backer
Rick
Certified Enneadecagon Designer
Are the letters white? or will have a transparent film.
There are a few ways, but I prefer routing out the letters
as this holds up better than gluing individual letters.
If you have clear or trans white letters and use a clear
backer, you SHOULD use a trans white film behind it to
avoid light leaks.
I always call out a mechanical attachment, (see drawing)
and maybe a dap of silicone in certain areas to keep it from
rattling. I like to be able to maintain the sign face... i.e. graffiti
can ruin both the sign face and the letters if you permanently
attach your letters/backer, you make them removable, you
can salvage both.
There are a few ways, but I prefer routing out the letters
as this holds up better than gluing individual letters.
If you have clear or trans white letters and use a clear
backer, you SHOULD use a trans white film behind it to
avoid light leaks.
I always call out a mechanical attachment, (see drawing)
and maybe a dap of silicone in certain areas to keep it from
rattling. I like to be able to maintain the sign face... i.e. graffiti
can ruin both the sign face and the letters if you permanently
attach your letters/backer, you make them removable, you
can salvage both.
Attachments
half are white and half are blue. The blue will most likely just get some blue trans vinyl on top. It's funny, We were JUST talking about the light leaks then I checked on this so that is good to know as a fix. Once these signs are up, I highly doubt anyone is ever going to be cleaning them unless someone really gets mad at him and throws some food or feces on the signs. We could set the file up to make it once piece but I think I am partial to the backer idea for this specific job. I have a small 2'x3' box coming up and I would most likely make that all one piece.