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Seaming DiBond

Dennis Schaub

New Member
I have attached multiple pieces of dibond to the surface of corrugated buildings before, but I am never pleased with how the seams appear. Even if they are lined up perfect, they are quite visible and distracting. Any advice on this/similar experiences? Below is the mock up, I'll be using two 60"x120" pieces, so one horizontal seam. Thank You.


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rjssigns

Active Member
I made panels for a local coffee shop totaling 16'. A retired sign guy install them. He used some type of backing tape he said was used for the seams. Fairly rigid with an aggressive adhesive.

Dang! That worked sweet. Sign still looks good years later. Problem is I can't remember what the tape was called.(never get old)

Only thing is where the panels butt I cut them with a fresh laminate blade and straightedge. As they sat in the shop you could barely see the joint. I always check the edges and wonder if they could be jointed like in woodworking?
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
I would use some scrap .040 aluminum with VHB.

why are you not using two 5' x 8' pieces with a vertical seam??
 

Billct2

Active Member
Depends on budget.
I would prefer to make a 1"x1" aluminum tube frame and have the seam hit one of the tubes and use tape/adhesive/poprivets.
A cheaper way is a piece of ACM on the back of the seam.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
This is 12.5' tall by 45' or so long. I forget how long it is after the years. This is about 4 years ago or so. There are seams every 60". While it's hard to see the seams, you can see them if you are looking for them, just like you can see a door jamb on a vehicle. Hopefully your layout/design will pull your eye away from seams and settle on the subject matter.

If you use a framework first, you will eliminate almost the entire seam. We used all 2" x 6" boards with 2" x 6" going up and down at every seam. We also coated the heads of all the screws with oil based white paint.

This is completely hand painted



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Gino

Premium Subscriber
really?? they kinda pop out when I look at it...

If you're referring to the one in the middle, that one wasn't put down yet and bowed out a little. I think we went across the tops and worked our way down outside in and did the middle last. You can actually see a small shadow on that one, so it's quite evident, that one was connected, yet. If you see others, than I guess we just did a lousy job, huh ??
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
I wouldn't say lousy, but if you throw out there that it's hard to see the seams and it isn't really that hard to see them...someone is gonna jump your chit....



probably me.....
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Yeah well, other than the one not down yet, I didn't think they were that easy to see at all.

I dish it out all the time, guess I can take it, too.



:cool: Musta had these on.............​
 

Marlene

New Member
I would go with vertical seams as the building has vertical lines in the siding and it will help blend it in as you won't see lines going both ways. on thicker material you can lap joint the panels but not too sure you could cut that on 3mm
 

shoresigns

New Member
Pro tip: Use a texture/photo/dark-coloured background to help hide seams. Solid light-coloured backgrounds make seams stand out the most.
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
Pro tip: Use a texture/photo/dark-coloured background to help hide seams. Solid light-coloured backgrounds make seams stand out the most.

yea.....doesn't really seem to fit the project.....


you did see the layout with the logo on the white background before interjecting your wisdom.....no?
 

Marlene

New Member
Pro tip: Use a texture/photo/dark-coloured background to help hide seams. Solid light-coloured backgrounds make seams stand out the most.

good idea. if this isn't a carved stone color combo, maybe going with a dark background would work. some companies have alternate color combinations
 

thinksigns

SnowFlake
If you did something like this it would get rid of the more noticeable long seam and the flames would break up the seam there.
 

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2B

Active Member
It all depends on the budget,

A full frame is the best way to go with the seam connecting on a support.

the budget way is to take a another piece of material (dibond is our preferred) and connect the seam on the support piece.


The cleanest way to connect is using VHB tape, POP rivets are also easy to use and have a small displacement.


@ Thinksigns, very good idea and those are easy cuts so no need for a router plus is adds an improved view/layout to the sign
 

Moze

Active Member
My two cents: Use a vertical seam rather than horizontal. Place the vertical seam on one of the raised ribs. A piece of VHB tape the length of the panels will keep the seam even. Use THESE the length of the seam (and elsewhere on the panels), paint-to-match the faces ahead of time.
 
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