Square pole mount

[10sacer]

Hello gang members,

Looking for solution to run tension cable between two 10" square steel poles inside a warehouse to hang signs from. they don't want to drop them from the ceiling as they have those massive fans that move air around.
I'm trying to engineer something using avenue banner brackets, but struggling to find a piece of hardware that can be used to attach to the tensioning turnbuckle.
Also thought about getting two pieces of 1/4" steel bar and drilling holes on left and right ends and then just using 12" bolts and nuts to compress it onto the pole and using a 12" threaded eye hook on one end to attach cable to.
Has anyone done something like this that has a suggestion?

 

[Geneva Olson]

so this is a longshot because i'm terrible at envisioning things. but have you seen those rod and cable systems? like nova displays?

Nova Display Systems, Inc | Cable/Rod & Rail Innovative Display Solutions

Nova Display Systems provides architectural quality suspended Cable/Rod Display Systems, Poster/Shelving Systems, Modular Display Stands and Panel Supports.

www.novadisplay.com

 

[10sacer]

so this is a longshot because i'm terrible at envisioning things. but have you seen those rod and cable systems? like nova displays?

Nova Display Systems, Inc | Cable/Rod & Rail Innovative Display Solutions

Nova Display Systems provides architectural quality suspended Cable/Rod Display Systems, Poster/Shelving Systems, Modular Display Stands and Panel Supports.

www.novadisplay.com

Yes, but those are meant to run shorter distances and not be under a lot of tension - just enough to get it taught. My cable will run 50 feet and need alot of tension to keep from sagging.

 

[Ryze Signs]

There are several ways to skin this cat. You could drill and tap the pole and thread in an eyelet, you could weld on an eyelet, your steel and all thread idea sounds good, although I would use unistrut instead of the 1/4 inch steel.

 

[JBurton]

I would use unistrut instead of the 1/4 inch steel.

Same here, though I'd opt for 4 sides of unistrut instead of buying 12" bolts.
I'm surprised these are tubes and not beams, there are plenty of beam clamp options that will handle plenty of tension.
My only concern is somebody snagging the cable with a forklift, snapping the cable and whiplashing the tension and panels around the shop.

 

[Moze]

This is how I would do it:

Drill and tap a 1/4"-20 hole in each steel tube

Thread a closed eyebolt into each hole (include nut, washer and lock washer - tighten against outside of tube)

Attach a quick link to each eyebolt

Hang a closed eye turnbuckle from each quick link

Extend each turnbuckle to their longest/extended position

Make a loop in one end of your cable, crimp your ferrule, hang it on one of the turnbuckles

Pull the other end of the cable through the other eye of the other turnbuckle, pull it as tight as possible, clamp it with vise grips, crimp your ferrule, cut off excess cable

Tighten the turnbuckles to take the slack out

 

[Moze]

Like so:

 

[JBurton]

This is how I would do it:

Drill and tap a 1/4"-20 hole in each steel tube

Thread a closed eyebolt into each hole (include nut, washer and lock washer - tighten against outside of tube)

Attach a quick link to each eyebolt

Hang a closed eye turnbuckle from each quick link

Extend each turnbuckle to their longest/extended position

Make a loop in one end of your cable, crimp your ferrule, hang it on one of the turnbuckles

Pull the other end of the cable through the other eye of the other turnbuckle, pull it as tight as possible, clamp it with vise grips, crimp your ferrule, cut off excess cable

Tighten the turnbuckles to take the slack out

So, why drill and tap if you are going to put a nut on the other end? And when using eyebolts for overhead loads, always use appropriately rated cast eye bolts, like so:

Just to say also, I don't trust a thread to hold pulling forces, especially threads of my own making.

 

[Moze]

He mentioned it's 10" steel tube. I would only drill and tap the side where the cable needs to attach. Don't really see a need to run something through the entire piece of tube or drill an extra hole. The nut/washer/lock washer are to ensure the eyebolt don't spin loose. They would be sit next to the eye portion and be tightened against the steel tube.

Whipped up a response on my break. I didn't spell out every detail....assuming the OP knows enough to use the properly rated hardware.

It's not going to be a thin wall tube. 1/4"-20 is easy to drill and tap and will hold just fine.