After watching that video I am even more glad that I have a Summa. It simply reads a barcode then everything happens automatically: reading reg marks, kiss cutting and perfing (flex cut as they call it). There is no tool changing, no front panel interaction and no dialog boxes on the pc.
I am also wondering what cutter the OP has.
Is there a video like that explaining the flexcut on the summa? Something like.... Flexcutting for dummies?
I been trying to flexcut with my summa, but I don get the right cut, I dont know why... Im running the summa with caldera visual cut, printing on orajet 3621 (cheap lam on it) tested all possible combinations of pressures, etc... And the stickers are too hard to get out (dont know the correct word for this) or get loose by themselves on the cutter screwing everything up.....
sorry for the thead hack, but maybe he can use this info too.....no?
Phil will hook you up with a good document to get you started. I also recommend studying the different flex cut settings on the front panel. The wording may not make sense at first but you want to experiment on the front panel to get the correct full and flex pressures for the particular material you are cutting. You also should dial in the lengths of the perf / non-perf cuts. Once set up on the front panel, those settings can be transferred to your rip for your particular media so it always cuts correctly. As always, write down the default settings before experimenting so that you can quickly restore the settings if needed. One more thing, for flex cutting the knife needs to be extended enough to cut all the way through the material. If the knife is retracted too much you will never achieve a flex cut.
Is there a video like that explaining the flexcut on the summa? Something like.... Flexcutting for dummies?
I been trying to flexcut with my summa, but I don get the right cut, I dont know why... Im running the summa with caldera visual cut, printing on orajet 3621 (cheap lam on it) tested all possible combinations of pressures, etc... And the stickers are too hard to get out (dont know the correct word for this) or get loose by themselves on the cutter screwing everything up.....
sorry for the thead hack, but maybe he can use this info too.....no?
0 degree and 90 degree flex cuts help preserve the life of the blade and the cutting strip. For bumper stickers, I tend to set the flex cut settings so the parts almost fall out on their own. For larger flex cut parts, I go for a true perf cut where you have to tear the part out of the roll. This prevents problems related to a part releasing prematurely but leaves a tabbed edge to the decal or sticker.
AF, do you ever have issues when cutting rectangles -- for example, the vertical passes (cutting top to bottom) cutting all the way through, the bottom edge (cutting left to right) cuts almost as good, and the top edge (cutting right to left) doesn't cut well? (sometimes having to be cut out by hand?)