suggested mounting solutions for 1/2" routed PVC letters to one-shot painted MDO

[iSign]

you would think I would have this down, in my 3rd year running my CNC, but the truth is I haven't dealt with this combination often. I do, however, get people wanting dimensional signage, for a lower cost than a full on routed or sandblasted panel.

So anyway, I will be cutting some 1/2" white Sintra this afternoon, and mounting it to my painted MDO. In the past, I've done things like using VHB tape, flipping the sign over, and with the aid of my install pattern, adding screws from the back. I've also stud mounted at times, when the panel is a non rectangle being cut on the router, and drilling the mounting holes is no additional work.

In this case, the sign has become somewhat of a rush job & the panel was just cut on the panel saw, and is ready to go without any drilling having been done.

I haven't routed the letters or plotted the mounting pattern yet, so I could still go with studs to add extra strength, but I'm thinking that is overkill.

It's just a 30" x 96" x 3/4" MDO panel, with two lines of copy... 10 letters each... one line bold type, the other is a regular weight letter. It is an exterior sign, installed in a hot sunny climate. Does anyone trust any adhesive to get this job secure for the long term, without mechanical fasteners?

 

[signmeup]

If the viewing distance will allow it use an air powered brad nailer.

 

[J Hill Designs]

I always like the security of mech fasteners and usually with that combo screw from the back

 

[Rick]

Every time I have cut corners, I got bite in the buttock, I would add pins at the very least.

 

[FS-Keith]

stud mount and silicone

 

[SignManiac]

Every time I have cut corners, I got bite in the buttock, I would add pins at the very least.

+1 insurance can pay off.

 

[signmeup]

Ever try to pull out a brad from an air nailer? The thermal glue makes them hold really well.

 

[Just Another Sign Guy]

I've got to agree using mechanical & chemical fasteners allows me to sleep much better at night...be it an outdoor sign & a stormy night or an interior project & a cleaning crew in a hurry who doesn't think to be gentle with an aging dimensional sign ..doesnt even enter their thoughts..nor should it really.

as mentioned glue/vhb..whatever and some simple brads (u can use an air nailer or even a hand stapler loaded with brads .. There is also cordless staple guns.

it takes so little additional time & reduces the chances of failure substantially..it is a no brainer imo.

if I was going to skip a step I would have routed the panel & pre'drilled' the holes for the letters or if on a material other than mdo routed a shallow pocket to 'receive' the letters & dimensional elements & then simply placed letters,etc & stud mounted from the backside...but there is no reason to avoid using both unless you are concerned about a reaction between a chemical fastener & the finish on the panel or other similar potential issues...imho of course

 

[iSign]

thanks for all the tips guys!

I tried my brad nailer through the face of a small dot, and didn't like the look.
The sign is only 9 feet up right above the gutter on a single story building.
If it was black PVC, I might have tolerated that, but it showed too much on white.

I used VHB, and then taped a mirror image paper plot to the back side, pre-drilled pilot holes, removed paper & drove 2 or 3 screws into each letter.
Mission accomplished!

 

[visual800]

silicone only. 2 part epoxy the rear of the letters and lightly scuff on the mdo and let them lay there for a while they aint going no where....no hardware nor screws

 

[MikePro]

no need for pattern on the back, as stated in the OP.
pattern on the front for aligning your letters, and prior to putting letters down, drill 1/8" holes through where the letters will cover.

mount letters with cheap-0 dbl.sided tape, spare the VHB as its expensive overkill if you're using mechanical fasteners. letters will cover the holes, and your holes will be easily found on the reverse-side to add counter-sunk screws (lightly tap with drill bit, first, to pre-drill the sintra and add screws but DON"T GO TOO DEEP!)