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Tips on Dimensional Installations

dlndesign

New Member
I've been working with one method for sometime now and I was wondering what the best practice is.

Here is what i do:
-Dimensional Letters
-Paper pattern (with or w/o stud marks)
First I eye where the center is on the wall I am installing on, drop a piece of tape down. Then throw the paper pattern up, level and center. Get client approval. Then depending on foam, acrylic letters I cut off the top part of the letters on the pattern, having tape hold the bottom bit in place. Silicone, foam, or vhb the back align to pattern and stick (repeat). Leaving just enough room on the letters where there isn't any tape or silicone to peel off tape off pattern and slip out from below the letters.

I am unaware if this is a standard/cheap/or great way to do this, but this is what one installer taught me over 4 years ago and I've been using is ever since with some modifications.

Any best practices you may have, i am open to new ideas.

Thanks.
 

John L

New Member
Depends on the job. What you described works most times for us. Sometimes we have to either pounce a pattern or do multiple strips (top and bottom, etc) in order to get proper alignment of funky letters or cut-out graphical elements.
 

John L

New Member
We use the regular black pounce powder from Glantz. Or just baby powder if you need white for a dark wall. We are mindful to not let the pound wheel make holes that are too large. We also dont really POUNCE the bag at the pattern.. more like a light back and forth rub. It leaves just enough of a mark to see what you need to. Usually just blow the residue away. It's worked for us on a variety of walls and finishes.
 

dlndesign

New Member
Good to know.
I've heard others that would leave the top and bottom part of the letter, instead of cutting off the top completely, and just use there tape and silicone in the center of the piece, anyone else do this, and why?
 

letterman7

New Member
It will definately vary depending on the construction of the letters. Indoor stuff, if they are light foam letters, I'll stick with VHB only. Bigger pieces or heavier PVC, I'll stud and tape. In both cases I'll run a pattern of actual vinyl and apply that to the wall. The vinyl is always close to the wall color or even the letters; stud mounted letters will have the locations already marked in the vinyl letter. The discrepancy between a vinyl letter and a routed letter in the corners is minimal, hence a color match if possible - you'll never see it. Been doing that for years with no issues.
 

Si Allen

New Member
Nlack, blue and white chalk work well....BUT NEVER use red chalk! It is there forever!

I remember seeing one job where the sign guy used red chalhk on his snap line.... it was still on the wall until they repainted the building 15 years later.
 

dlndesign

New Member
Letterman,
Would you mind throwing up some images of walls you've done in that manner? We do not have a lot of vinyl to choose from, or we have to print it, either way, it just seems like a hassle. But I'd like to see the end result and maybe put a foot in my mouth.

Thanks.
 

dlndesign

New Member
Nlack, blue and white chalk work well....BUT NEVER use red chalk! It is there forever!

I remember seeing one job where the sign guy used red chalhk on his snap line.... it was still on the wall until they repainted the building 15 years later.


Thanks for the insight, wouldn't have guessed it.
 

dlndesign

New Member
Thinking of a new approach, has anyone taken the letters laid them out on the pattern then taken tape, or transfer tape and laid it over the top of the letters, holding them in place, then placing them on the wall in one shot?
 

J Hill Designs

New Member
I did it with 1.5" letters - used 1" masking tape (letters were already covered with transfer tape before router cutting em)
 

John L

New Member
I'd think the chance of shifting something amuk would be very high. Plus you still need to align the taped, floppy legend on the wall.
 
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