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It's already been mentioned, but saving to EPS or even PDF would be where I would start. We work primarily in AI and just utilize flexi for braille (though our CNC operator uses Enroute so we've had similar issues come up there) Flexi has improved over the last few years as far as playing nice...

looks like Josefin sans https://fonts.google.com/specimen/Josefin+Sans

Looks like Harrington TTF with a stroke added

https://fontbundles.net/ka-designs/288301-apricots-handwritten-script-font?ref=hhktxI

hmm not sure how that would work, a lattice structure works on a 3D printer because that material is rigid almost as soon as it is printed. So upper layers can "float" given a few support points. Most printers that can do 2.5D are using liquid ink. This means layers wont float, they would just...

We've been working with 2.5D for a few years now (Mimaki JFX200-2513EX). Useful for temp ada signs + Really cool effect with textured prints, but it's expensive to occupy the flatbed for that long, so our sale team has had a hard time pitching it to clients. I get to play around with it each...

CP is Coated Process (CYMK builds of approximate Pantone colors) - PC (Process Simulation Coated Paper ) was discontinued around 2010 (basically they just renamed it when the color bridge was overhawled)

I mean... Yeah, you're right, but the OP is working from CMYK. What exactly is your suggestion here, they go buy a 1200$ tool and hold it up to the computer screen? Using a spectrometer and lab values is the right way to go about it, but the job still has to get produced?

Yeah that seems about right... how else will they keep us buying their stuff? Oh Pantone, why are you the worst?

they're using Ginifab CMYK converter there is also this one Dns CMYK converter

Just to add some confusion, PMS 2304C is Illustrator's best match (color build is C:32 M:6 Y: 77 K:12 - so you're trading mostly magenta for black) +the build listed above for PMS618 is incorrect, actual build for that is C:19 M:16 Y:91 K:28 (per the PMS color bridge book) I don't put a lot of...

Weird, they seemed to do nice work. At least there is a whole bunch of theoretically competent signage talent on the look for new jobs..

Anyone have the scoop on what's going on with Poblocki? Have gotten quite a few last-minute jobs lately from clients who were working with them and then were told out of the blue that they couldn't produce/install the sign package. We work in the same market so they come up on a semi-regular...

Try just printing black/white/color to see how opaque your black is. The photo you posted doesn't look like it has a black layer in it. If all else fails you could print one file reversed and one file right-ways then laminate together with white vinyl in between them.

Pretty typical scenario, client comes in for a sign and requests color matching. All of our shops for the job list that the client must provide pantone color prior to production, but client and PM ignore the note until it is half-way through production, waiting to be painted. Client has no...

^agree with this 100% but also know that's just not how it is going to play out sometimes. If you have to hire "just a warm body" off the street, do your best in the crash course mode (I'd keep it basic, pros/cons of materials, with lots of example jobs), then make it very clear to them that...

Would recommend the thinnest cast vinyl you can find with a long outdoor life. The thinner it is the more it will conform to the pads but I doubt anything would last permanently.

You could easily test it, but from the samples I've seen in the past EcoSol inks tend to be very thin & saturated but transparent, meaning they wont give you the same hazy effect that a thicker UV ink would. Think you would get a similar result to the latex photos attached earlier on in this thread.

What kind of printer are you working with? As others mentioned white ink can give you something along the same line, though it's not really a frost. Clear gives more of a true frosted look. But any UV printer, even those without white or clear ink, can give you a kind of "frosted" look because...

Have you had issues with the raised ink curling and chipping off the the signs from DCS like this?