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Need Help Coroplast issues - seeking tips and tricks

ikarasu

Active Member
That makes sense ill look up some videos! And i was wondering about flashback if cutting coro on top of a big sheet of aluminum. To me doing that seems like it would have a lot of flashback on the metal
I havent had to use it, so I cant say. i use a honeycomb... and I dont get any flashback on coro... just on acyrlics. I think if your cut settings are dead on there will be no / minimal flashback.

Theoretically you could use a non reflective material for it to avoid any flashbacks - Throw a sacraficial 4x8 coro underneath it.... Swap it out once it gets too damaged or gunked up. Or use alupanel - Eventually you'll burn through all the painted white, but you're making very thin hairline cutmarks... So odds of overlapping lines / flashback occuring should be pretty nil until you cut hundreds of sheets and most of the paint is removed from it.

Can you make a jig that goes overtop of your knives and then you just throw the coro on it? One thing I do for acyrlic is with the honeycomb I put golf tees in to lift the acyrlic up and it gets rid of flashback.... If you have the capability to do it on house, I'd manufacture some "Cross knives" That go in the opposite direction that you only use for coro - Throw them ontop of your current knife bed, should only take a few minutes...cut your coro, remove them, and just keep using those only for coro. Should keep the gunk from your plywood and other materials off your coro
 

ikarasu

Active Member
Totally stealing the golf tee idea! :notworthy:
It works great. Fits into the honeycomb perfectly... Keeps it level, and they're cheap for when you run the laser right through them:roflmao:

The acrylic being raised a quarter inch off of the metal prevents any flashback too, since it defocuses the laser beam. It's win-win, I use them all the time
 

CC-CMYK

New Member
Yes and no. The printer itself has opened up a LOT of production possibilities for sure, but we keep running into the dumbest issues. Currently it keeps dropping connection to versa mid print and theres no way to start again and these signs are big ACM signs and a dark black print that we cant cover in one pass of white.

Also idk about yours but our potentiometer? is sooo sensitive and the dial moves so easily that we have also lost prints to the head raising too much. It took us, nazdar, and the field tech like 6 months before we could all figure out why the print head would go up like 4-5 inches during a print, since figuring that out we are now more reliably able to print and look at it everyday but we even got a replacement and the dial is still crazy easy to move even when taped down lol

And we mainly are printing beds full of different acrylics which creates a LOT of static and we have to clean most prints because they cant seem to get us a damn static bar. They have had our money for months and keep saying oh it should ship next week but never did so we just said give us that 5k back..
Wow that sucks. Have you received your anti static bar yet? We had an issue with clogged nozzles and had the head replaced. I think it was my fault though. Are things any better?
 

DylanBJS

New Member
Wow that sucks. Have you received your anti static bar yet? We had an issue with clogged nozzles and had the head replaced. I think it was my fault though. Are things any better?
Nope. Every time we tried to order it they accepted our order and when we followed up it was always on back order. We added a new big filter that hangs just above the print bed and use iso alcohol to try and get rid of the static. We also built a loft area above the acrylic sheets that we can lay the coroplast down flat and that really made the biggest difference, rather than the 4x8ft sheets on their sides!
 

guillermo

New Member
I have printed on coroplast and foam core on my mimaki JFX200-2513 and then cut with the laser, you will get a little difference in the color on the cut line edge than the rest, but is not too noticeable, also, I do 2 or 3 cuts on coroplast, same power and speed, about a third of what it will take to cut it all though, a little more time, but works best and you get a cleaner cut than one cut.
 

GaSouthpaw

Profane and profane accessories.
Ummm... I'm not 100% certain of this, but isn't Coroplast and its knockoffs one of the plastics you shouldn't be cutting with a laser due to the gasses it creates?
 
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