Clear and Primer channel clogs on UJF-3042 UJF-6042

[btxmedia]

Lots of talk about how the clear/primer heads on the 6042/3042 MKi and Mkii always end up clogged. What is the exact reason - is it something in the the clear ink or primer specifically? Or just that most users don't print these channels frequently which leads to clogs?

Looking at the MSDS sheets for LH-100 White vs LH-100 Clear I am not seeing much difference. I also see it sometimes referred to as varnish but there isn't a specific ink called that, so that must be the Clear.

Each contain Acryl acid ester, 1,6-Hexanediol diacrylate, Diphenyl-2,4,6-trimethylbenzoyl phosphine oxide, and the special Mimaki additive. White then has Titanium dioxide added for pigment.

Basically the clear ink appears to be just the white ink carrier blend minus the pigment. Which shouldn't be an issue. The primer is totally different though and I could see how that might clog up it's channel which then gums up the #3 head fully preventing Clear from going.

Does anyone here run a Clear/Clear setup? My guess is that should be totally fine as it's just a de-pigmented White/White set. Feel free to add any stories about the clear/primer you have.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Clear/primer clogs seem to be the norm on the UJF-6042MKII. My #11 head is shot thanks to primer, and since the caps, while divided, are still connected. Leads to contamination and the like. As for the inks, LH-100 base is clear when unpigmented, so all the inks (not the PR-200 primer) in that series are chemically identical. As long as the printer is powered, it should be running maintenance cycles, but I think there is something about the primer in general that just seems to trash heads.

 

[btxmedia]

I think there is something about the primer in general that just seems to trash heads.

Makes the most sense that the primer is the culprit, it's MSDS chemicals are different. If I had a spare machine I would set up a Clear/Clear head to test and just keep manually priming materials.

 

[netsol]

buy yourself a printhead doctor (?)
have the discussion with vlad & his chemist
they will probably have a recommendation of a recovery fluid for thst particular
chemistry.


we have a chinese knockoff of the printhead doctor & a big part of the lesson is: run routine maintenace
on the head, BEFORE it shows signs of needing it

if you think about. using primer, it makes sense thatbthat is the channel that fails.
as my painterfriends always say

paint only sticks to primer. primer sticks to STUFF
that stuff includes the nozzles in your printhead

i would start a disciplined routine:
print 1sq ft of each color a day (or whatever amount is appropriate
schedule automatic cleanings
remove and invert & shake the cartridges daily
consider building or ebay purchase of a "shaker table"
(i hesitate to recommend that last step, you will be bidding against me)

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Ever had luck recovering a primer head? Hoping to pull mine soon and replace it. Would be nifty to have a spare when needed.

 

[Solventinkjet]

The primer absolutely destroys heads in my experience. It doesn't necessarily clog, it tends to delaminate the head surface which causes the nozzles to fail.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Sounds about right, I have maybe 20% of nozzles working on the primer and 35% or so on the clear from the same head.

 

[netsol]

The primer absolutely destroys heads in my experience. It doesn't necessarily clog, it tends to delaminate the head surface which causes the nozzles to fail.

that explains a lot
if it didn't break the surface of the substrate it wouldn't "stick"

 

[btxmedia]

Sounds like the consensus is the Primer PR-100 and PR-200 are the culprit just due to the nature of primer. Not so much a clog as a busted head. And the Clear channel fails alongside it because of the damage.
Doesn't sound like it's worth it to pull a standard "clogged" Clear/Primer head for fixing then. It would be best to replace the head and totally flush the primer line out, swap the damper/damper assembly, and just run Clear/Clear on the new head and not let Primer ever get in.

 

[Solventinkjet]

Sounds like the consensus is the Primer PR-100 and PR-200 are the culprit just due to the nature of primer. Not so much a clog as a busted head. And the Clear channel fails alongside it because of the damage.
Doesn't sound like it's worth it to pull a standard "clogged" Clear/Primer head for fixing then. It would be best to replace the head and totally flush the primer line out, swap the damper/damper assembly, and just run Clear/Clear on the new head and not let Primer ever get in.

I agree. This machine uses sub tanks instead of dampers and the primer has a special reinforced sub tank specifically because it's so harsh.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Just depends on whether the head is clogged or damaged. If it can be recovered, heck yeah. Just give it lower odds than a head that just ran ink.

 

[btxmedia]

I agree. This machine uses sub tanks instead of dampers and the primer has a special reinforced sub tank specifically because it's so harsh.

Which machine, the MKii series?

Just depends on whether the head is clogged or damaged. If it can be recovered, heck yeah. Just give it lower odds than a head that just ran ink.

Don't suppose there's a way to tell unless you crack open the head. I wonder if the delamanation is like this

which wouldn't show up on the outside.

 

[netsol]

Just depends on whether the head is clogged or damaged. If it can be recovered, heck yeah. Just give it lower odds than a head that just ran ink.

but, keep in mind, the 2 problems are not mutually exclusive
having a clogged head DOESN'T mean there can't be damage additionally.