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EDGE is Dead... power supply?
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Fred Weiss
Merchant Member
I can be the power supply or the driver board ... or it could be as simple as a fuse or a thermister blown. I'd start with a good eyeballing of the electronics.
I had this happen a while back and my distributor arranged for the different modules to be shipped to me and I then changed out each. In my case it turned out to be the driver board. My cost at the time was $175 for the replacement board and the shipping costs. I, of course, had to turn in my old driver board as part of the deal.
I had this happen a while back and my distributor arranged for the different modules to be shipped to me and I then changed out each. In my case it turned out to be the driver board. My cost at the time was $175 for the replacement board and the shipping costs. I, of course, had to turn in my old driver board as part of the deal.
Thanks for the well wishes. I had noticed a couple of your posts mentioning how it was as easy as changing a bicycle tire...
I'm curious as to how you went about determining it was the power supply.
Replicator
New Member
Did you try plugging it into a different wall outlet or checking a breaker before all other assumptions ?
Replicator
New Member
Just a thought !
Yep. Even checked to see if it was the power cord itself, and it fired up the plotter just fine.
Right now, I'll keep my fingers crossed on "switch"
iSign
New Member
It's been so long, if you found an old thread of mine, you probably know the details better than I recall then at this point. Back when it happened I knew very little about my machine & I'm sure I was quite worried. The process of making that diagnosis was someone elses role I'm sure, & I imagine I was worried right through the install, untill the job was done. About the only thing I do remember was that it happened to be Thanksgiving weekend when my part arrived & I rushed down to fix it right away so I would know how much trouble I'd be in on Monday morning.
GARY CULY
New Member
i thought of something here just a minute ago ..i swear i had that happen to my machine once .ive thought for bout an hour now about it ,cant remember ..BUT [ mayby doug could chime in here too] isnt there a micro switch on the cover that unless its depressed the it wont power up? a sensor on that hood lip? mayby its not reading the lid is closed causing it not to power up?...er mayby another one somwhere that needs to connect first for power up? its been so long but mayby someone else will verify /deny.
Talked to Ray. He gave me a couple of insights, but suggested I call ND Tech support, as they could probably trouble shoot best. Called the number... which bumped me to Gerber Tech support.
So I've got a call in with a reference number. Hopefully we can figure something out!
Chris
SO I picked up a multimeter today and made sure there was continuity in the circuit as far as I could follow it. Wasn't very far (see attached image). But I think we can safely rule out the switch.
We'll see what GerberTech has to say in the morning (assuming that's when they'll call).
As for the "kill switch" you were referring to earlier, I believe that was on the "Classic" EDGE models, where there was actually some sort of fob on the inside of the machine so that it would NOT operate if the black side cover was removed.
Attachments
GARY CULY
New Member
http://www.repair-home.com/Using_a_Circuit_Tester_to_Test_a_Switch
well that good the switch isnt dead..something simple sometimes overlooked ...i just looking at the diagram you made ..if you put one end of tester on one end of the yellow line ,and one on the other ,,it should light up as your doing nuthing but making sure the wire is good completing a circuit [check for a broken wire itself].one of those wires shouldnt make the tester come on until you turn the switch on.to test the switch ,youll just need to do the hot poll that shoots electricity into the machine ..when its off the light shouldnt be on ,,,when you turn on switch ,then it should light up showing a complete circuit ,power is going through that wire into machine
The linker above shows testing a switch to see if your power is OFF so you can work on a switch in your home ,,,your doing same thing only other wire .
if nuthing else someone that dosent know how to do this may learn.
i dont know i always use an ohm meter ,by no means am i tryigng to make anyone look stupid ..i know how people can take commennts on here and i dont want to be the bad guy here ,honestly trying to help .
well that good the switch isnt dead..something simple sometimes overlooked ...i just looking at the diagram you made ..if you put one end of tester on one end of the yellow line ,and one on the other ,,it should light up as your doing nuthing but making sure the wire is good completing a circuit [check for a broken wire itself].one of those wires shouldnt make the tester come on until you turn the switch on.to test the switch ,youll just need to do the hot poll that shoots electricity into the machine ..when its off the light shouldnt be on ,,,when you turn on switch ,then it should light up showing a complete circuit ,power is going through that wire into machine
The linker above shows testing a switch to see if your power is OFF so you can work on a switch in your home ,,,your doing same thing only other wire .
if nuthing else someone that dosent know how to do this may learn.
i dont know i always use an ohm meter ,by no means am i tryigng to make anyone look stupid ..i know how people can take commennts on here and i dont want to be the bad guy here ,honestly trying to help .
Worked with Scott at GerberTech this morning. He was very patient. He figures it's the power supply (assuming I did the "test" correctly).
He had me test the large connections from the power supply with a voltmeter, and they both showed "zero".
So, he's supposed to be getting in touch with ND to send me a new one, and then I guess we'll find out!
He had me test the large connections from the power supply with a voltmeter, and they both showed "zero".
So, he's supposed to be getting in touch with ND to send me a new one, and then I guess we'll find out!
sarge
New Member
that is pretty spendy .. my servo motor on my summa was $509 .. i just have a fast question or 2 and i may have missed this if it was addressed .. and if it was i am sorry .. right below the on-off switch is a fuze .. even if it shows continuity it may still be bad .. replace it .. just replace, i am sure it isnt more then $10 .. i dont remember seeing what the volts were going into the step down power supply .. and were you able to get a current reading in as well .. and did you check both current and voltage out from the power supply .. another thing i would do is check to see if when you do power it up if the heat sinks on the transistors either got hot or did one or 2 click as you applied power .. i would also be interested if you got a voltage spike from the step down to the main board when power was applied
Replaced both fuses. Nothing changed.
Everything else you've mentioned is slightly above my head (but it's Friday, and my brain is frazzled). :Sleeping:
omgsideburns
New Member
Ick. One of my edges is tossing me a "z-axis error" on boot up. I haven't had a chance to check it out, but I've got two others in the shop I can use so I haven't missed a beat. At the price you can get them for it wouldn't hurt to pick up a spare!