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Installing a 4x6ft wood sign

Moze

Active Member
Yeah once or twice. That's the problem. I bought an electric sawzall because I got sick of battery swapping when I was reskinning our shop.

Once or twice what...? What's the problem exactly?

What were you using a recip saw for at your shop?
 

ikarasu

Active Member
I love battery tools as well.

For drills, sds/hammer, they're a god send - will they have more power or outlast a corded one? No... But I've got a dozen or so batteries and can pop it in when I'm doing really large jobs. I haaaate dragging a cord around.


Then There's the thought it was a good idea but wish I didn't buy tools - I have a Ryobi, and a Milwaukee heat gun. Hate them. We've used them twice in a very rare situation. You know it's bad when the 55 year old who wouldn't stop bugging us until we got one, and weights 110 lbs soaking wet will lug the generator in the back of the truck for an install vs bringing the cordless.

Cordless augers are good - if you're drilling 50 post holes, you wouldn't want one - but you also wouldn't want a corded... Gas augers are stronger / better than both options.


Every tool has it's place (that in includes the mostly useless employees!), And every installer has a unique set of tools that benefits them the most.


I don't think using a cordless saves the enviroment.... The mining of lithium to make the batteries on-top of having to constantly charge them, and replacing the batteries every few years.... and bringing more batteries for larger jobs - cordless tools are likely worst than electric, even generator charged tools. It's all about the convenience.
 

Texas_Signmaker

Very Active Signmaker
I couldn't imagine running corded power tools for installs on the job site. My SDS will drill hundreds of holes before needing new one. Drills and impact last all day. The only thing that will blow through batteries are those huge portable flood lights or the cutoff wheel. I have 7 or 8 batteries on my truck and on a heavy day might swap one out. At night when I get home I throw the ones I used on a charger and plug my lift in. Next morning I toss them back in my truck, unplug my lift and hit the road. Takes all of 30 seconds.

Sometimes I'm gone for days out of town so I carry backup chargers on my truck and have the ability to plug them into the inverter. I've had that backup option for years and never used it. Those batteries will last me days of long install jobs.
 
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Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
I'm genuinely curious. What are these trailers for that you build? What are you using a drill for - are you driving self-drilling screws through lumber then through steel cross members?
Pre-drill and run 5/16 self tapping (not self drilling) trailer screws
IMG_20230124_082628.jpg PXL_20230121_011425266.jpg
 

Moze

Active Member
Pre-drill and run 5/16 self tapping (not self drilling) trailer screws
View attachment 163634 View attachment 163635
I think this just got sidetracked a bit. The discussion was about cordless tools and sign installations. Then it got turned into production work on trailers. Without any real details, I'm not going to argue whether or not cordless tools could work on redecking trailers, when they would be practical or not. But I will say I'm curious which cordless tools you have that give you such poor performance. You mentioned 4ah batteries. 4ah is too small for high demand applications. Recip saws that can only make a couple of cuts.

Specifically, what cordless tools are you using?

Back to sign installations, I stand by what I said that there are very few install situations where cordless wouldn't be the preferred choice. But, if employees are using these tools, etc.....I can see why one would simply provide corded tools since they're less expensive.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
I think this just got sidetracked a bit. The discussion was about cordless tools and sign installations. Then it got turned into production work on trailers. Without any real details, I'm not going to argue whether or not cordless tools could work on redecking trailers, when they would be practical or not. But I will say I'm curious which cordless tools you have that give you such poor performance. You mentioned 4ah batteries. 4ah is too small for high demand applications. Recip saws that can only make a couple of cuts.

Specifically, what cordless tools are you using?

Back to sign installations, I stand by what I said that there are very few install situations where cordless wouldn't be the preferred choice. But, if employees are using these tools, etc.....I can see why one would simply provide corded tools since they're less expensive.
Got a bunch of Milwaukee, a bunch of makitas, 3 rigids, Ryobi. I didn't just start working yesterday. I missed the part where this was an exclusive signs only conversation, sorry. FWIW, I put decals on the trailer too.
 

Moze

Active Member
Got a bunch of Milwaukee, a bunch of makitas, 3 rigids, Ryobi. I didn't just start working yesterday. I missed the part where this was an exclusive signs only conversation, sorry. FWIW, I put decals on the trailer too.

Didn't say it was exclusively about signs, but that was the topic when cordless tools were brought up in the thread. My point was just that when it comes to sign installs, or removals, for that matter, cordless tools can basically hang with corded tools. There are obviously advantages and disadvantages to both.

You basically changed the subject when you brought production work into the discussion. If we're talking about all day production work, then corded may be better for you.

That being said, I wouldn't use 4ah batteries for what you described anyway. 4ah batteries aren't intended for what you're describing, they're for light duty work. I'd use 6ah, 9ah or 12ah 60v batteries and, at the risk of ruffling your feathers, I think you'd be surprised at what they can do...including driving 5/16" self tappers through wood and steel.

By way of example, a little while back I helped a friend install a couple of hundred seats in an auditorium. Each seat was attached to the concrete slab with four 1/4" x 3" wedge anchors. He had a corded Hilti SDS, I had the cordless DeWalt SDS. We started on opposite sides and worked towards each other. When he finished, I had eight holes/two chairs left to go. So each drilled right around 400 1/4" x 3" holes. I used a total of three batteries.
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
Didn't say it was exclusively about signs, but that was the topic when cordless tools were brought up in the thread. My point was just that when it comes to sign installs, or removals, for that matter, cordless tools can basically hang with corded tools. There are obviously advantages and disadvantages to both.

You basically changed the subject when you brought production work into the discussion. If we're talking about all day production work, then corded may be better for you.

That being said, I wouldn't use 4ah batteries for what you described anyway. 4ah batteries aren't intended for what you're describing, they're for light duty work. I'd use 6ah, 9ah or 12ah 60v batteries and, at the risk of ruffling your feathers, I think you'd be surprised at what they can do...including driving 5/16" self tappers through wood and steel.

By way of example, a little while back I helped a friend install a couple of hundred seats in an auditorium. Each seat was attached to the concrete slab with four 1/4" x 3" wedge anchors. He had a corded Hilti SDS, I had the cordless DeWalt SDS. We started on opposite sides and worked towards each other. When he finished, I had eight holes/two chairs left to go. So each drilled right around 400 1/4" x 3" holes. I used a total of three batteries.
You're not ruffling my feathers, I have and use plenty of cordless tools. Gino brought up corded tools and I agreed with him. As far as the 6AH and larger, they're bulky and heavy. Not something that I want to be lugging around plus they are expensive. I also prefer a keyed chuck when I have to drill a pile of holes into steel. If I did field work then I would likely have a big battery SDS but the corded one is fine in a shop plus I'm not spending a paycheck on replacement batteries every other year.
 

Moze

Active Member
You're not ruffling my feathers, I have and use plenty of cordless tools. Gino brought up corded tools and I agreed with him. As far as the 6AH and larger, they're bulky and heavy. Not something that I want to be lugging around plus they are expensive. I also prefer a keyed chuck when I have to drill a pile of holes into steel. If I did field work then I would likely have a big battery SDS but the corded one is fine in a shop plus I'm not spending a paycheck on replacement batteries every other year.

Gotchya
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
Well yeah, but how did gino drop this sign with one truck? I still wanna know!


It was kinda easier than we had anticipated.

First, we used a rented 65' knuckle boom lift. There's a thread here ( I think its yours ) about a denny's sign falling..... well, we did the exact same thing, but on purpose. We cut, with I think a 9" grinder until the sign was 100% loose, but tied to the lift. Lowered it to the ground and untied it. I came back and we moved the sign outta the way. He went back up in the lift and cut about 14' sections 3 times. Each time, just pushed it off and it fell to the ground. We had them clear about a 35' circle around the pole, so we could be careless. Other than me helping him move the cabinet outta the way, he did the whole thing in about 3 hours. He first hadda take all the LEDs out. We had just retrofitted that sign about 2 years ago. I believe the sign was 10' x 12' or 14'. While he did that, I installed 9 other ground signs, but I had the regular truck. Had all electric tools except my impact driver. That's one tool I'm grateful for being battery and strong. The only tool I haven't gotten is a battery circular saw, but will probably do it soon. Looking at the makitas, as I am a makita man. Been one since the early 80's
 

Notarealsignguy

Arial - it's almost helvetica
I grabbed a Chinese 20v 1/2" impact wrench for $99. It works pretty good and when someone in the shop runs it over, I wont be overly ticked off. Still doesn't beat air but I do really hate dragging air hoses all over the place for 1 bolt.
 
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