Magenta stop printing

[mustafade]

Hello everyone,


While it is printing banners on my JV33 magenta stop printing. Right before this job I printed 300' digital vinyl with no problems what so ever. I switched to print this banner job and in few feet in to the job magenta stop firing.

Do you think the head is clogged?

I already did a 3 min nozzle wash but no luck so far.

What should I try next?

 

[J Hill Designs]

cart empty?

 

[mustafade]

cart empty?

Funny you asked that while it was printing it beeped and I checked what it was and the red light on Mag cart #1 was on but ink level was 29% so I pushed the cart in and it turned in green however the 2nd Mag cart was 98%. After wards I did 3 time ink fill but still no luck

 

[Freese]

Check the damper for ink and examine the ink lines above head and below capping station for air leaks.

3 min nozzle wash wouldn't do much, I would do the max (99) and see if that helps recover at all.

 

[WrapperX]

If it beeped and there was a malfunction on the 29% magenta cartridge maybe there was a gap in the line from when the cartridge malfunctioned and the time that you pushed the cartridge into the slot. So maybe there's some air caught somewhere in the line.

 

[mustafade]

If it beeped and there was a malfunction on the 29% magenta cartridge maybe there was a gap in the line from when the cartridge malfunctioned and the time that you pushed the cartridge into the slot. So maybe there's some air caught somewhere in the line.

I am asking this just beacuse I don't know but logically thinking, if there was some air in the line do you think 3 fill ink would pushed the air out?

 

[mustafade]

Check the damper for ink and examine the ink lines above head and below capping station for air leaks.

3 min nozzle wash wouldn't do much, I would do the max (99) and see if that helps recover at all.

Dampers full of ink as far as I can tell. It seems like there are no leaks but I do not know how to check it properly to make sure. Can you offer any tips?

 

[WrapperX]

A nozzle wash doesn't do anything but soak the surface of the head. So no I don't think that would work. You can try running a couple of Ink Fill Up cycles that usually pumps with the most force and will pull new ink from the lines into the dampers and ultimately through the head. However if there is air in the line - you may be fighting negative pressure and so your pump can pump till it burst - you may need to do some sort of hard suction with a syringe below the capping station. Now I've never done this on a JV33 but it works on the JV3. Now this is assuming that there may be an air pocket in the ink line. This maynot be the case at all - it was just something I thought might be a possiblity.

How does your test draw/nozzle check print look?

 

[mustafade]

A nozzle wash doesn't do anything but soak the surface of the head. So no I don't think that would work. You can try running a couple of Ink Fill Up cycles that usually pumps with the most force and will pull new ink from the lines into the dampers and ultimately through the head. However if there is air in the line - you may be fighting negative pressure and so your pump can pump till it burst - you may need to do some sort of hard suction with a syringe below the capping station. Now I've never done this on a JV33 but it works on the JV3. Now this is assuming that there may be an air pocket in the ink line. This maynot be the case at all - it was just something I thought might be a possiblity.

How does your test draw/nozzle check print look?

On test draw no magenta at all. Other colors look perfect.

I was on the phone with Advantage Signs Supply tech and he suggested that I need to be changing the capping station and as well as the pump and is sending me the syringe to test what you are referring which is hard suction below the capping station to see if capping needs to be replaced or not.
I ordered the capping station just in case as well.

 

[WrapperX]

Yeah - no magenta in the test draws leads me to believe there's something above the print head blocking the ink from moving. But you say when you look at the dampers there's ink in there? That most likely means theres a build up of pressure that your pumps can't over take. So the hard suction could solve that.

The capping station is a disposable part so its one of those things covered under the yearly maintence scheduals - although I've only changed them out once on a four year old JV3. I feel if it ain't broke why fix/replace it.

keep us posted on how the hard suction and capping station replacement goes.

 

[Case]

On a JV33 you don't want to syringe from underneath the cap without opening the valves first.... Not necessary on a JV3....


Case

 

[mustafade]

On a JV33 you don't want to syringe from underneath the cap without opening the valves first.... Not necessary on a JV3....


Case

I was going to syringe it underneath to test the seal whether I need to change the capping station or not, not to draw ink. But it is a very good tip because I did not know I supposed to open the valves first. Thank you very much.

 

[mustafade]

Well, I change the capping station today which was pretty straight forward, but nothing changed.
Before I changed the capping station I test the old capping station with syringe and right side was leaking air but left side was pretty tight.
I tested after the change both sides were leaking. ( I did turn on the valves before I tested )
Now I am confused whats next?
Another capping station? I know I didn't put it wrong.
Any suggestions?

 

[Artgunner]

On a JV33 you don't want to syringe from underneath the cap without opening the valves first.... Not necessary on a JV3....


Case

What's the best way to do this? Seems at one time there was maybe a function method? Can you explain, please? I am experiencing similar problems. I have 1 blue, 2 yellows and 2 blacks but no red firing at all on a JV33. I have seen a tech draw from below capping station but sure which tube he used. There are two of them going to the pump. I have been nozzle soaking for many days now and are slowly bringing them back. Not sure if it was a faster way or what.

Art

 

[mustafade]

Has anyone know how to do #Adjust/Capping?
If you do, are there any risks involved doing it? Tubelite tech suggested that that's what I should try to do to align the capping station.

 

[artbot]

i had this issue a while back (finally solved it by stretching out my capping station springs). one great suggestion to target the cap seal and the head was to "paint" the rim/seal of the capping station with black ink. park the head carriage on to the capping station (printer off of course). now slide the carriage to the left and with a flashlight, look at the bottom of the head. there will be a "foot print" of where the cap seal is landing on your head. with my experience, it's is more likely that you don't have the right absorb distance (shimming/springs on the jv3) and not position.

also, losing just the cyan and no other color points more to a restriction in that line and not a capping station issue. restrictions can be clogged lines, bad dampers, clogged head manifolds. or air leaks, bad head manifold gasket, leaking unions to dampers. being that the jv33 has a single cap to the entire head, it would be much more difficult to have a single color's failure due to vacuum issues.

 

[mustafade]

Tech is coming tomorrow morning to get us going

 

[Artgunner]

Well, I change the capping station today which was pretty straight forward, but nothing changed.
Before I changed the capping station I test the old capping station with syringe and right side was leaking air but left side was pretty tight.
I tested after the change both sides were leaking. ( I did turn on the valves before I tested )
Now I am confused whats next?
Another capping station? I know I didn't put it wrong.
Any suggestions?

Where did you get the correct sized tubing from for syringe? How did you turn on the valves? I here that you must have someone working them from backside of JV33 unit? Many thanks to all for all the help and understanding.

Me personally, I would like to completely understand how those parts work in case I do have to call in the big guns. Sometimes, advice given can lead to serious problems without complete understanding or comprehensive info about parts and or issue. I know that can be lengthy at times but very crucial. Having these discussions help in those areas and are appreciative by the readers.

 

[Artgunner]

As an example: Never pull dampers without powering down machine first and waiting 15 minutes before powering back up.

Sorry for extra post... Cheers!

 

[J Hill Designs]

you dont need to wait 15 min, just power down, unplug, and hit the power button 4 times to discharge the capacitors