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Order it from a wholesaler. Will be less expensive than you think and look nice. I have acoustic panels in my house and I can't see myself UV printing on them. If your UV printer has soft ink you can print on material. Mine is hard ink. Which I think would not be ideal for sound absorption.
We never had the green color problem till we changed Black Inks (still Epson just a refill). We will be cleaning out the old black and trying a new black to see if that helps. How do you make your custom profiles? Are you using Epson for the rip or other. I have the option to use Flexi which...
How about caring the ACM with a spray laminate or roll laminate after UV print on the ACM. We do use pretreatment for adhesion promotion for all our UV long term prints with good results. So far 1 year in direct sunlight in the Caribbean.
We use the 6370 as well. We have experienced the same green shift even when printing with Rich Black. We will be testing some adjustments shortly but everything g was fine till recently. But on some prints we are getting a perfect black. I need ti measure the color mix to see the difference.
What about something like Quick Snaps that you can mount with adhesive to the back? I have been using them quite often as cost effective with bi component glue.
Also what thickness of tape do you use? Most of my experience is in metal sublimation and we use a self adhesive PVC cleat system that has been amazing both cost wise (almost the same cost as VHB tape per inch.
I am curious, you don't use a full film for the entire surface of the acrylic print? Isn't there excessive force on the ink, since the surface area is small using a tape and the ink is a point of contact between the tape and the metal?
I am using a 40x60 machine. I which I purchased the full size machine instead. Too many jobs lost not being able to do a full sheet. The difference in footprint between a 40x60 and a full 48x96 isn't that much. Make sure the machine and your location can handle coroplast as static will be an...
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