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i would do cut vinyl on these BUT the biggest issue with these are you may do them fo a few years but then they get new administration and they end up calling someone else and they cant match fonts

best ada I use is bellco signs out of the birmingham al

its got to be acrylic with trimcap, once you take trimcap off you can use it for a pattern, IF graphics can be reused I would try that. Call another sign shop and ask them if you can buy ebuff trimcap to do this ob instead of getting a whole roll

if you call me, as quick as I can I will tell you Im on an install or driving and to text me address of install and any layouts you have.

i would fabricate aluminum framing and use maxmetal, its going to have seams thats just going to happen. Where the seam it tape both side of the seam and put caulk on the seam rip[ the tape off! Nice clean seam! and of course make sure your frame have a brace right at the seam!

now that i have come back to this post i see more detailed pics of this sign! sand it and strip it, prime it with 2 part epoxy and spray with latex white and paint letters white no clearcoat needed with this method

I agree with you comment and I respect hand done but also in the same sense aint nobody got time for hand lettering without a stencil in the commercial world, the parking decks ive done were 3-5 stories and possibly 20 columns per story on all 4 sides, stencil tore right thru them things quick

Windows is its own worst enemy for sure! Im running windows 10 with no defender no nothing! No updates. Aint had any issues and I use glary utilities to clean off a little bit every day. Machine runs fine!

Yes you can paint it and use vinyl as masking. Best masking vinyl on block wall is oracal 651. First coat should be done with brush and do NOT put it on thick you can then come back and roll it over again still not going thick. Make sure you press down vinyl on all edges with fingers to make...

dongle aint gonna do you no good without software. Each software has its own dongle might wanna check ebay or the for sale boards on here

.5" is a little too thin to be placing screw anchors in, not enuff meat on that size grab anything. I would think small finishing nails with vhb maybe 4 nails per square or a french cleat

i do not remeber this cookware but I think what you did was awesome giving it a purpose!

once agian Ill keep my cs5 disk

I would choose C according to your options. However painting the background with black latex and applying cast vinyl over it would be best option IMO....NEVER NEVER use black acm, the coating on ACM are absolute crap and do not last outside

No one will tell me how to dress and how to act during install. They dont own me. This is uncalled for and absolute bs, its getting out of hand. These are the same pricks that will take 90 days to pay

trash it. nobody has the time or energy for BS like this

do not use firberlag repair for metal just use regular bondo type body filler, sand it, prime it paint it and then put HP vinyl on it matching font close as possible, lettering enamel will not last like it once did

fist thing I would tell them dont waste your money. Its going to get beat to hell and back and it aint gonna hold up

if you send me crap I will tell you that if I create your sign with it your sign will look like crap. If you insiist I will go ahead and do your sign. I dsepise customers and their infamous jpegs

You need to scuff the back of the acrylic letters and then prime with 2 part auto epoxy primer its available in a spray can at automtive paint supply places, dont be using no cheap a$$ rustoleum primer!....and then silicone the letters to the front using a pattenr and hold it up there with...