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I agree with everything above. Sounds like you've got some worn out seals and air leaks. I always thought this as well because dye sub is water based but I actually see the opposite. I'm not sure what it is about dye sub inks but they seem to eat up heads faster than the solvent inks. I'm sue...

The station on this machine is more like a Mimaki or Roland. The cap and pump are separate and it uses a diaphragm pump instead of peristaltic so the tubes should theoretically never break. A welcome improvement!

Try this: Turn the machine on while holding the left and right arrow keys. It will boot in parameter input mode. Scroll up to parameter 130 called INITIAL and hit enter. Then change the value to a 1 and hit enter. Now power off using the main switch on the side. Now try and upload the CSV file...

In my experience the DX5/DX7 aftermarket cap tops tend to be good quality as long as they look similar to the OEM ones. The ones that have plastic screens in them instead of metal tend to be the worst. But compared to other aftermarket cap tops most of them are legit.

Anyone who is surprised by a price hike these days simply isn't paying attention.

If the truck is white it should look good but I'd test it on a small piece and let the customer approve or not first. If the truck is any other color it might not work out so well. Ink is much more see through than it seems when you print on white vinyl. Print on some clear and take it off the...

That would be too easy! Good luck!

I've been meaning to try this but haven't had a chance to. You might be able to install the MImaki profiles onto Flexi. If you go to this link: https://mimaki.com/product/inkjet/i-roll/jv100-160/download.html Choose your ink type and configuration and it will give you a list of profiles to...

If your head is already deflecting after such a short time you might just need a new cap top. It might not be sealing well which causes the nozzles to dry out and fail to recover during cleanings. I'd probably throw a new cap in, do a head soak, and then run a strong cleaning. That should help...

You make all good points and I especially agree on people needing to be able to self repair but I would be surprised if Epson sold ink to aftermarket suppliers. Roland, Mimaki, and Mutoh all use Epson ink and the reason is that when those companies went to Epson to get a license to use Epson's...

If you sent this email to me 20 years ago I would think you were pranking me. What a time to be alive.

It depends on what printer you're using. Printers like most Mimaki, Roland, and Mutohs don't have a ton of onboard memory so they rely on the computer to feed it data constantly. Other printers have hard drives on board that make it so they don't need a constant stream.

When a company offers a warranty that's 4 times longer than what the original manufacturer gives, always be skeptical.

You simply can't print fluorescent colors on a CMYK printer. It's always going to look washed out compared to the real thing. Print the picture above with your printer and that will give you an idea of how close you can get.

The cables are horrible. The official rating is that they can be installed 3 times before failing.

Shoot me your serial number and I'll see if I can get it. I usually can but since you're in Australia I don't know if they handle it the same way. Worth a shot!

We do. Make sure to test the fuse on the CR board as well.

Bordeaux brand has worked well for us. Not necessarily. What we've found is the black tends to slowly fail so if you can flush the black channel and get it printing like you mentioned above and then put the 3rd party inks in place, it should fix the issue. We think that the black just slowly...

If you're using the new Mutoh inks that come in the black ink cartridges, we've been seeing this problem in the DX5 based ValueJets. The solution is to switch to 3rd party ink.

Yeah sounds like you popped the head fuse on the main board.