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in the supplier's defense: a sticker will accumulate dirt, by nature of the product. ship them an edge-sealer pen, as part of the quote, and be done with it.

we just make our own by sandwiching the acrylic between two 1"x.5" aluminum angles

i use three tabs of red-lined acrylic tape: first, band your takeup roll with masking tape, Left Middle & Right. then, add tabs of the dbl sided tape to the bands then, tack your backing to this, making sure to get a full rotation or two of spooling the backing onto the core (so that it...

its a decal that's twice the size of a yard sign, printed on a more rigid substrate, and simply folded over the yard stakes like a cheap pricetag at a yard sale or a baggage sticker at the airport. cuts down on space required to transport hundreds of them, and less fill in the trashheap, ...but...

scissor lift with arms edited: oh, hoist through a narrow space and a glass wall? yikes. not much else you can do except cut access holes in the wall with intent to cover. ....or use a hoist with power-drill attachment like SignStein referenced above.

FriedStix

sq.ft pricing will only work if you price it to cover the most exhausting routes, and then know how much you can walk it back if you want to be more competitive on a particular quote. a 4ft square could have a larger sq.ft. area than a 3sqft perforated panel, or a 1'x10' signature, but the time...

+1 to verifying permits for signage, if you're not pulling them yourself. things get hairy fast when/if can gets kicked to a sign guy to "just install it", and then the lawyers take over when the city fees start piling up. as for power: property owner usually has an electrician, as does the...

scuffs galore, and not just on the vinyl. where do these graphics sit on the boat? definitely looks like its rubbing against something. trailer? dock?

cheap & reliable would be to get a used mimaki cg130fx. I see used ones going for <$4k, but if you can come pickup in Wisco I'd let one of mine go for less. never been a fan of print&cut printers, for a number of reasons but I had two of these plotters and they worked wonderful for the past...

do not weed out the fine details, leave a ~1/4" border around them and use transfer mask to install the blobs and weed the remaining negative parts after it settles on the glass.

weight: weigh an empty core, weigh a yard of vinyl now weigh your roll and subtract the core and divide by yard weight. you have X.yards remaining.

its not rocket surgery: use a straight edge and a knife OR print your cutline and just cut it freehand OR rollup your print square on a tube and take it to a bandsaw. if you wish to cut on your table, just take it in 6ft sections at a time and roll-up both ends as you go. ...and i would try to...

double lines is usually because your cutpath is a stroke rather than a fill

huge fan of a pair of little giants and a scaffold plank for things like this.

bring a folding picnic table or declare a clean area to peel&wet the vinyl, fold in half (3x4) sticky-side-out, spray the piss outta the window & slap that baby up! lock-in a hinge somewhere near the top, light/medium squeezee-up, finish light/medium squeegee-down, then spray the piss out of it...

just cut a hole in the floor for access :)

aye a half-sphere would be the extent of what I could "wrap" my head around in a pinch. i feel like my above advice is still for advanced users, as any "wrap" over such a contour is certain to lend itself to the pinstripe wiggle.

convex conformable? i doubt it, besides still relying on the material to also do with another material "holding it back". ....but I'd still rock it as a challenge. you can make those bits conform no problem, just start applying in the middle and tear-away mask & smoosh paintmask as you go...

paintmask vinyl for stencil and just spray it with rattlecan. if the bits and pieces are a pita to weed, then just save the weeding until you've applied the whole sheet. ...i also usually filet all corners to like a .01" so they peel clean rather than tear/lift at corners.