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Easiest and looks decent is Aluminum angle with thru bolts all painted to match

I have a local trophy shop I work with. You can also get them from online suppliers

Sad news. He was the best part of that magazine, a real guy talking about real life sign shop issues.

I don't remember a Matte Clear, but I always though the Edge finish was too dull anyhow and usually cleared it with something like FrogJuice. You could try the abrasion guard that seems to have a low lustre finish

Agree with stud mounting. But may want to reconsider material. Did something like that once with wo layers of 6mm, with counter sunk flat head bolts on the first layer, nuts on the back (also acts as spacer) then bond the face with vhb & epoxy. More secure than just pads

How much heat can a laminated digital print handle? How much heat can cut vinyl handle? I have a client who want signs on some metal hoppers that can reach 200 degrees. The signs would be vinyl on thin aluminum

I wonder if the value will really go up? Who will invest in Gerber equipment knowing they are done? People like me who have built a lot of jobs around those machines may value them, but we are going the way of the dinosaurs. But I doubt anyone will get Gerber equipment when starting out.

I would worry that kerf cuts would compromise the carved letters when it was bent. I thought about stacking sheets and cutting to the curve but it sounds difficult and expensive. Also how do you cnc the letters after the sheet is built? I guess I could sharpen my chisels but I'd rather not go...

Quoting a 4'x8' carved HDU sign and it has to be curved to mount on curved fence on top of a curved wall. I did a smaller one years ago on a curved stone wall. Carved a 1" thick panel. Mounted a blank 1" HDU panel to the wall first, then screwed and glued the carved panel to it, bending as it...

The Edge and some of their plotters are some of the best most durable machines built. They were one of the inventors of computer sign making. They dfintely had some misteps along the way but It's a shame they are doing this.

I've done it with smaller letters, used vhb. I would think vhb would work, but maybe Moze or another member has done them that large wold know. One think, you should cut a reverse version of the letters in vinyl to block it out from the back

depends what you're sticking

Why is reproducing a historical design a "curse"? I think just slapping computer perfect Cooper letters would be the crappy look. I've done historic race cars and always match the vagaries of the original hand lettered design as closely as possible.

When I was learning how to letter I loved fonts like that, no square corners or edges. I would start with something like Cooper, but a search may come up with something closer. And then modify. The beauty is it doesn't have to be "letter perfect".

Outwater Plastics

Like Gino said a 3 point hanger is harder to level. But if you use this type of adjustable hangers it's fairly simple. I would attach on ends with eye bolts and in middle with screw eye. Using grommets as attachment points wouldn't work well

We use white pvc pipe. I always prefer top & bottom so they hang flat (at least for ones with straight bottoms). On the top we often come out an inch on either end, add caps and have eye bolts mounted there. If you want to seal the bottom pocket a piece of banner tape is fine.

We used vhb & screws. Don't have any pics.

Been trying to track this down but can't find it with the numeral style shown here Any ideas? thanks

We used a wall extrusion from I think it was Excelart. One end removable and used coro panels