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I know nothing nor am I affiliated with them, but if one were to use the google machine and type in "pattern crew" along with the name of the camo, one might be pleased with what one would find. ;)

almost every theater will have stage weights for the fly system readily available backstage, so a solid bottom would make it easy to plop one of those on the plywood or MDF base that the coro is attached to. That's not going anywhere for sure with an extra 40-50 lbs on it.

You're making periaktoi. If you wanna impress them toss that word into conversation somewhere. ;-) (Former theatre and dance nerd here)

what part of those pictures tells you that?

I'd offer you to let my kid do them if you wanna outsource then he can hate us both :roflmao:

I just said that :cool: And so far I've been too cheap to buy a corner rounder, so a metal can and a razor knife probably makes it harder than it needs to be :p

Straight edge and a knife is the best way to cut magnet (unless you have one of those fancy flatbed chingaderos :rolleyes:). Apply your printed vinyl on the magnetic media, and then score it with your knife. Use a fresh blade and change often, score it like 1/3 to 1/2 way through and then flex...

Reminds me of a hydro print job from about 10 years go. I camo dipped a prototype game call speaker of some dude and did it as a rush because he had a meeting with Bass Pro or something like that. He wound up stiffing me and ghosting me over a couple hundred bucks. Then out of the blue a couple...

Oh I like the matching thing

"sorry, we've already exhausted our charity budget for this year" They don't need to know that budget is close to zero.

what media is that? It almost looks like the results one gets when trying to use uncoated media with incompatible ink.

I've heard the same, just got a couple of scraps from a buddy to play with recently but haven't had time to do anything with them yet, I was kinda figuring on cutting it from the back so the bounce didn't screw up anything in the machine. At least that's my current thought process.

The sounds like maybe an ideal laser situation

I would suspect that "JanisK" is only here to link spam in the body of the message to drive traffic to the 2 sites, seeing as how this is their one and only post and it's a necro-thread. Pretty common tactic to get backlinks.

I know nothing about polar grip, but have you tried the 440 LSE from Substance? It sticks well to plastic kayaks FWIW. They will send out a free sample roll if you contact them.

How long is rope? How high is up?

FWIW specialty-graphics.com sells smaller cuts of vinyl materials, including cast by the foot. I've ordered plenty of oddball stuff from them over the years and never had any issues.

A sandblast cabinet is just less messy than open-air blasting. Unless you already have a fairly decent sized compressor you're not going to run one efficiently. Where are you located? There may be someone nearby that can assist with that. I'm looking at and thinking about how much of a PITA it...

Aircraft stripper will desolve just about any paint out there, but honestly with the rust, I'd try to find someone with a blast cabinet to give it a quick stripping and remove the rust. If you can't do that, after stripping, use some evap-o-rust to neutralize the remaining rust before you try to...

there's a common one for welding shops asking to make some gates. It's almost become a running joke in some of the groups.