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Roland VG series machines start up and run their own periodic cleanings on a schedule. So any extra solution in the caps would just be cycled off next time it runs its own maintenance routine. I let the caps soak in extra solution when cleaning heads but as soon as you finish cleaning the...

Ya, I would say you somehow have your water chiller lines hooked into to your air system or you have a massive amount of condensation in your compressor. We have an OmTech and the only problem we had was a screw came loose on one of the x axis drive pulleys that slowly started to slip, since...

You need vehicle wrap vinyl...3M 2080 has an air release, repositionable adhesive that would do this easily in one app...lately we use Air-Mask for premasking...its clear and very conformable...much easier to use on vehicles than normal 2ml vinyl...if you had started with these materials I am...

We have a Texjet Echo 2 DTG with Digital Factory Apparel Version RIP/Print software... It takes eps, pdf, tiff, png, bmp, svg, jpg and a few others... I send pdf files to my Roland but still flatten most of my complicated artwork for more reliable/faithful reproduction of transparencies...some...

Cant really compare lam to non-lam visibility if the life-span is going to be even shorter than normal with no lam. Getting slightly better visibility can't be worth half the lifespan especially when its going to be covered 50/50 or 60/40 with vinyl either way.

We always charge square footage for the material plus an hourly rate for setting up, cutting, weeding whatever it is. If its actually simple or easy to weed it ends up cheaper and maybe cheaper again on repeat jobs. Straight square footage pricing can be exploited on both ends.

No really, you sound awesome to work for...

I got a handheld electric metal shear for 4mm ACP panel and a handheld electric concrete shear for thicker stuff...got to clamp a straight edge on the sheet to run a straight cut and it takes an 1/8" ribbon out of the center with each cut but it leaves a fairly nice slightly rounded "safe" edge...

Try "Break Parts Cleaner"...they have Chlorinated and non versions...comes in a spray can...I find the chlorinated version works surprisingly well on adhesive but not a huge amount of experience overall as I only borrow it from mechanics when I run out of my normal adhesive/oil remover out on...

Am I bad? I use mostly 180c but also some 40c on Versa but never use the 3M profile...I have printed on a slightly edited "Generic Vinyl 1" for years... I print almost all exterior vehicle graphics so I want bright colors...tried the 3M profile but found "Generic Vinyl 1" was a bit brighter...

Just tried an expensive Wet Edge squeegee on my last wrap that worked pretty well if a lil pricey... I find a heat gun will even take some scratch marks around rivets out...its annoying if you have to heat everywhere tho... The WetEdge has lasted longer and worked better so far for wrapping than...

Meh, I have never wasted much time on monitor calibration stuff. You can spend a lot of money but its hard to hold that fancy monitor next to a fender...I've seen the prices on some color sampler devices but I find even a well taken phone picture provide a pretty good starting point to match a...

That was another part of our decision...getting a quality dryer that won't burn the shop down was NOT cheap.

As far as I understood the process... 1 you screen the design backwards and in the right order onto transfer paper 2 then pass the still wet print through a box of special transfer dust so that the dust sticks to the still wet print and let dry. 3 knock the excess dust off and Voila! A transfer...

You just need to trace those shapes better/tighter on the picture and scale it properly...you can put a small 0.06" or 0.09" outline on the shapes to help it fit/install easier...should all cut easily on a plotter but you can also print/plot a cheap paper pattern first to check your lines...if...

It gets a bit more complicated if you are also Contour Cutting as you can only stop between crop marks and start it cutting again...but for large panels with overlap I dont bother machine cutting.... Normally sending to Versa I take any artwork with transparency/lenses/drop shadows and convert...

Not exactly sure how you are using transparency...I tend to flatten my artwork with transparency or lenses before printing so there is no funny business...the rip is gonna make a big tiff out of everything anyway... but Versaworks will panel something like that no problem...if you line the...