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70F w/ about 45-50% humidity is really good (if you can maintain it). Some HVAC systems do a better job at dehumidifying than others. For my shop, I have to run a separate dehumidifier to keep it in that 45-50% sweet spot.
Want a huge file? Wait til a designer send you AI files embedded with 3D elements. I'm working on a storefront wrap right now (approx 400sq.ft. of large "steampunk-style-gears)... all vector.. sitting at 12GBs. :o
Well hawt dam! I've got a ton of tools, but haven't tried Topaz yet... until tonight. Totally kick azz! Thanks for the tip! Check out this quick, 5 minute test run. Sheez!
I haven't tried the "smart fold" version yet, but the design looks much better than the v2 series I currently operate. They're great cutters in general, but the previous version has several knobs on each side that constantly work themselves loose. It looks like Foster/KC fixed that issue with...
If the design allows for it... you might be able to do it all in translucent colored film (e.g. 3630 series red cut vinyl on top of white). I always prefer this method, but when printing is necessary, I'll print on translucent (with custom media profile -- but nothing out of the ordinary like...
He probably hit a file size / resolution limit / etc. Depends on the version of PS being used too since older versions of PS have lower file size / res limits / etc.
Oh geez, that sucks! I'd probably consider salvaging it with a roll of double-sided adhesive -- if cost effective to do so. (not that I've ever purchased / used wide format double-sided adhesive, but it might work).
Create your Photoshop document at 20x resolution so you'll be working at 1/20th scale. For example... if you need a final output of 100ppi for a 40' x 16' layout (480" x 192"), create a new file in Photoshop at 2,000ppi (20 x 100ppi) with dimensions of 24" x 9.6" (1/20th final output size)...
Not specific to Caldera -- and not that relevant to your technical issue -- but in general, I avoid using <100% opacity whenever possible because it's too unpredictable. Instead, I'll choose the exact colors I want (often from Pantone) that give the desired effect without opacity.
For...
Hmmm... that's tricky. I didn't have any other issues after replacing my CR motor. I just made sure everything was super clean / greased. No problems since.
Maybe there are some bearings elsewhere that are going bad? At least... that's what "I" would look for. Others might have better...
Ah yes... low iron glass. Nice stuff (I use it for glass whiteboards). I got free 12" x 12" samples by contacting my local glass company (they had it drop-shipped from the mgfr).
My Mutoh 1614 did the same thing (noisy while printing + E068 / E074s) about 4 years ago. The noise got louder over the course of several months (I cleaned / greased everything I could find). Errors were intermittent. After lots of trial and error I eventually narrowed it down to the CR...
All the main RIP providers have trial versions. Give 'em all shot and see which works best for your needs. You can also get perpetual licenses (for a higher up front cost, but without ongoing subscription fees). You can also find deals on the forums / Global Garage / eBay if you're patient...
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