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yes and no.
ideally I'd just let the basematerial be what it is to save time & cost to client, but with PVC you pretty much have to paint it or black will turn grey and white will turn brown with exposure to elements.
interior, doesn't really matter, but ultimately acrylic is still muuuuch...
for me, in onyx, it was an issue with using a stroke rather than an object fill for the cutshape designator.
was treating the stroke as two lines, and cutting them
we just buy ChemMetal laminate and laminate our own materials with contact cement.
huge fan of acrylic as the base material, as the finish is much cleaner by comparison to PVC.
I usually route my lettering face-down, which allows me to add stud holes to the backside, but also keeps my upcut...
can you make some templates that cup the four corners of your sheet, that have registration marks on them? might be difficult if every sheet is a custom cut file, but if you're step&repeating the same cuts then it could be useful
basically tricking your machine into scanning a "6x10 sheet" to...
I tend to hijack these kinda threads with the DIY mentaly
buuut does it have to be 6ft? ....why not max out a 60" roll on a printer and just "make it work, with a series of posts slapped into the coastline in a curve to wrap it around with grommets & rope/bungee?
....or just source a grand...
+1 metamark was only one I could find.
edit: to say Hexis is awesome.
was actually curious if there were some restrictions on PVC manufacturing, but it appears it was geared more towards aboloshing production of "single use plastics"
i asked Grok to draw me a picture of an S101 sign on a corrugated wall. (twitter/X.com's AI chatbot)
takes a little coercion to ask for further details like Reverse Illumination/etc, but its fun to play with.
p.s. now that's i've hijacked the thread, Taylor Swift wraps cars between football...
most likely the tension on the laminate spool of your laminator. ever so slightly stretching the laminate before it lays-down onto your print and it wanting to shrink-back.
...especially when it comes to calendared laminates like the 215. If you don't mind mix&matching brands, Grimco's...
i like it. its no secret the wall is corrugated, so why not show it off with some killer deflections?
*tip: map out the high spots, 4-6"spacing/etc., and utilize for your mounting pattern so you don't have to jump around between highs/lows or the cursewords that come with having to drill out...
3M 8624 will stretch&contour, but the arlon8000 is really just for flat stuff as it's fairly rigid by comparison.
if its something permanent and the client wants their mortar lines contoured, then I upgrade to 8624, but if just spanning the mortar lines is acceptable then I'll use the 8000 but...
its just at the edges of the material, but a good point
...just use a piece of masking tape and dab at the rollers where this occurs after every roll/run. plucks up those goobers like a charm.
did you laminate with a conformable laminate like the recommended 8428?
ooof, u said it won't stick? have you tried sticking anything else to the surface? ...sometimes people wax their vehicles and it makes it difficult to adhere.
no experience with the 280 but it was my understanding that...
rereading this a decade later, i'm thinking the OP was referring to them using edge cap for alumacore rather than trim cap for acrylic channel lettering.
i may have been mistaken, and went off on a rant about how trimcap flexes to custom shapes pretty well.
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