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I always pull as soon as I can, while the paint is "wet". If it requires multiple coats or it's gold leaf I often do a second very thin "bleed" cut. Apply first coat, pull the bleed cut. Apply second coat and pull the rest of mask.
Still working on this project proposal. The fence is being made by a railing company
that will fabricate if from aluminum. They are able to make a curved aluminum backer plate that matches
the shape of the sign. So now I'm thinking that I can make this from a 1" carved panel with a 1" blank...
Never had a customer like that but definitely a few jobs that were total fubars every step of the way, with plenty of blame all the way around, but as we know I had to take it all
There was a thread on here not long ago about a logo design in which the name and logo gave no clue what the business was about. It’s a trend I’ve noticed for a while. Maybe it started with the web, when a weird catchy name was more important that informing. Just this week I saw a new gun shop...
I don't remember a Matte Clear, but I always though the Edge finish was too dull anyhow and usually cleared it with something like FrogJuice.
You could try the abrasion guard that seems to have a low lustre finish
Agree with stud mounting. But may want to reconsider material. Did something like that once with wo layers of 6mm, with counter sunk flat head bolts on the first layer, nuts on the back (also acts as spacer) then bond the face with vhb & epoxy. More secure than just pads
How much heat can a laminated digital print handle?
How much heat can cut vinyl handle?
I have a client who want signs on some metal hoppers that can reach 200 degrees.
The signs would be vinyl on thin aluminum
I wonder if the value will really go up? Who will invest in Gerber equipment knowing they are done? People like me who have built a lot of jobs around those machines may value them, but we are going the way of the dinosaurs. But I doubt anyone will get Gerber equipment when starting out.
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