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I would worry that kerf cuts would compromise the carved letters when it was bent. I thought about stacking sheets and cutting to the curve but it sounds difficult and expensive. Also how do you cnc the letters after the sheet is built? I guess I could sharpen my chisels but I'd rather not go...

Quoting a 4'x8' carved HDU sign and it has to be curved to mount on curved fence on top of a curved wall. I did a smaller one years ago on a curved stone wall. Carved a 1" thick panel. Mounted a blank 1" HDU panel to the wall first, then screwed and glued the carved panel to it, bending as it...

The Edge and some of their plotters are some of the best most durable machines built. They were one of the inventors of computer sign making. They dfintely had some misteps along the way but It's a shame they are doing this.

I've done it with smaller letters, used vhb. I would think vhb would work, but maybe Moze or another member has done them that large wold know. One think, you should cut a reverse version of the letters in vinyl to block it out from the back

depends what you're sticking

Why is reproducing a historical design a "curse"? I think just slapping computer perfect Cooper letters would be the crappy look. I've done historic race cars and always match the vagaries of the original hand lettered design as closely as possible.

When I was learning how to letter I loved fonts like that, no square corners or edges. I would start with something like Cooper, but a search may come up with something closer. And then modify. The beauty is it doesn't have to be "letter perfect".

Outwater Plastics

Like Gino said a 3 point hanger is harder to level. But if you use this type of adjustable hangers it's fairly simple. I would attach on ends with eye bolts and in middle with screw eye. Using grommets as attachment points wouldn't work well

We use white pvc pipe. I always prefer top & bottom so they hang flat (at least for ones with straight bottoms). On the top we often come out an inch on either end, add caps and have eye bolts mounted there. If you want to seal the bottom pocket a piece of banner tape is fine.

We used vhb & screws. Don't have any pics.

Been trying to track this down but can't find it with the numeral style shown here Any ideas? thanks

We used a wall extrusion from I think it was Excelart. One end removable and used coro panels

For small decals the Gerber is still one of the best machines. You have many options fir spot colors that you won't get from many other machines. Unless you are doing a high volume of 4 color printing I'd stay with it

New acrylic face with jewelite trim cap glued to it with resin bond. Easy fix but not cheap if you don't have a cut off of acrylic the right size, or some jewelite or resin bond. You'll have to buy a full sheet of acrylic, a full roll of jewelite and some resin bond.

We usually make our own using this: https://www.nepcosignsupply.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=15645&idcategory=3738 Or if it is more generic common size just find the cheapest I can online.

My clients will usually want their sign to be in the portfolio. I can see where some cases they might not, but that's usually when it's inside a facility. What I get annoyed by are the companies that post photos that are obviously not theirs. Worked in a shop once where a sign salesman wanted to...

Great job Stacey, even "bad" signs can look decent. But as far as a "written warning" that's what the signed proof is for. I just had a job where they wanted a gray background with blue & orange lettering. I showed a medium/light gray and they insisted on a dark gray. I said I was concerned...

There was a bigger electric shop near here who had a guy doing side jobs, on the clock, with the company bucket truck.

I started in the day of hand lettering and almost every painter I knew, including myself, did side jobs. Once people know you make signs you get requests and those lead to some more. Nothing I did was ever in competition with where I worked. But I did know a shop where the owner wouldn't let the...