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If you're the least bit handy and have the 300-series service manual, don't be afraid to try this yourself. I've been running HP large-format printers since 1998 and I've never paid for a service call. The service manuals take you through the procedures step-by-step.

It's listed as a product on their website (thinksai.com/hplatex), but I don't see a purchase option. Couldn't hurt to ask though.

3M 40C-20R vinyl with 3M 3645 overlaminate. 3645 laminate is expensive, but incredibly tough.

My HP365 came with FlexiPRINT HP Basic Edition which works fine for me. Like you, I only use it to send files to the printer. No monthly subscription.

Try softening the old adhesive with 99% isopropyl, then removing it with a rubber cement pickup.

Bill Moxley is the Seal guru. He has helped me with info and parts. I'll PM his number.

Recommended reading: Endurance: Shackleton's Incredible Voyage by Alfred Lansing (1959)

My suggestion will sound counter-intuitive, but it made all the difference for me: less weight on the dancer bar. When I was having these same problems with perf, I tried lowering the heat, increasing the vacuum, and increasing the interpass delay. All of these helped, but after a few feet had...

I saw your other post about the top roller heating problem. I can't help you with that issue, but I'll bet that Bill Moxley can. His number is [deleted]. He helped me with advice and parts for my Seal Image 400. Super nice guy. When you call, make sure you have time for a friendly chat...

Usually with floor graphics you use butt seams instead of overlaps, since the raised overlaps will wear faster, and the raised seam edges are more easily lifted by scuffing, possibly causing a tripping hazard. But for a 4-5 day installation, overlapped seams are probably fine. With a graphic...

If it's a genuine HP cartridge, you may be able to get a replacement under warranty. I have in the past when this happened on my Z6100. (And it happened all too often!!)

Where are you getting it for $150 a roll?

Narrowed it down to the valve. Shoutout to Lux who helped identify the issue, and to Mark Snelling who connected me with Bill Moxley. Bill is a super nice guy and he's sending the part I need.

Yes, of course, blue tape! Lots of blue tape. ...and a tool belt that holds your roll of blue tape so it's always handy.

A template is extremely helpful if the spacing is random and/or you're hanging with cleats and need precise positioning for the wall cleats.

Thanks Lux! This is very useful info! I'm also hearing a click from the solenoid. Time to dig deeper. I'll disassemble the valve and see if it needs cleaning.

YES to all of these: Jig Laser level (green laser is much brighter than orange) 3M Command Strips Attached are a couple of photos of an exhibit with 200 evenly-spaced panels. These were all prints on vinyl mounted to 1/4" PVC, and put on the wall with 16-lb Command Strips. The second photo...

Thanks Mark! I will PM you.

Thanks Lux!! Before you bother taking resistance and voltage readings, let me know if you have a plug in the threaded socket that I circled in green. From the appearance of the threads, it looks like there used to be a plug there. Air is escaping through this hole. If you don't have a plug...

...also, does anyone know what the resistance should be on this solenoid? I'm reading 5.36 at 20k ohms. Thanks!