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1-shot, or latex... for durable RED on primed HDU

iSign

iSign

New Member
First, let me say that I was a very content user of 1-shot for a long time... both rolling backgrounds on MDO, and rolling or brushing HDU letters & sandblasted signs..

when I got my CNC and began having more dimensional, and/or textured signs to paint, I knew it was time to bring spraying into my world, and did a lot of research talking with some old school signshop veterans, (both here and elsewhere) about HVLP and latex.

So, I have a line of Pittsburgh Paints that matches the chemistry of Porter paints (now owned by Pittsburgh) that I have been spraying for some time now, and it has been fine in every case...

but for this job, I am tempted to revert back to my 1-shot loyalty & wanted to hear what others think, based on the specific areas of concern for me...



  1. Red being known as one of the colors most prone to fading
  2. This set of lettering will be 30' in the air (in constant direct sun... except at night :wink:) , and not as easy to touch up in 3 years, if it didn't hold it's color well...
  3. This sign is expensive, and the client rightfully hopes for a nice red, that stays red as long as possible
  4. My foray into spraying was mostly done for difficult to paint items, and these large letters would be easy to roll 1-shot onto

here is a look at my 3" thick, 20" tall beveled HDU letters, primed with Cooke's WATER BASE primer:

trusshdu.JPG
 
Jillbeans

Jillbeans

New Member
Whatever you do, don't use 1S. The bright red dulls to the color and texture of a brick after two years.
I have had good luck with Ronan's Speednamel (on metal surfaces)
I don't do many HDU signs.
Love....Jill
 
Letterbox Mike

Letterbox Mike

New Member
I wouldn't use 1-Shot either. Consider acrylic automotive enamel, it's intimidating sounding but we finally started using it and it works really well and is no different than spraying any other 1-part paint. Just thin it properly and spray it. Just don't breathe it in...
 
OldPaint

OldPaint

New Member
IAM WITH INSIGNIA.......AUTOMOTIVE URETHANE SINGLE STAGE WITH HARDENER!!!! wont get a longer lasting fade resistant paint anywhere.
NOW.......got the choice of 2 ways to go at this.
1. do you have an AUTO-BODY repair shop with a spray booth near you, and wont kill you price wize to spray em?
2. you COULD spray em yourself with the HVLP paint eqipment you have, but i strongly recommend high end breathing apparatus so you dont get any isocyanate's in your lungs.
being HDU, if you go the auto paint route, you will need a compatable epoxy primer. put on a couple light coats as the vehicle the primer is in is high VOC. to much on the HDU might melt it. do a test on a piece of scrap 1st.
other option is ACRYLIC ENAMEL with hardener. same precautions.....but cost less then urethane.
since i worked in the auto parts 15 yrs, and did body/fender work, i have been using automotive enamels all the time i been doing signs. every auto paint place has "screwups" when mixing paint. trying to match existing paint on a vehicle is tricky. just a little to much of one of the mixing formula colors and....its a can of "screwup." now this is still viable paint, but just a shade off of what was needed. you can go to most of these place and buy a whole gallon........for $10-40!!!!! using it for SIGNS or sign backgrounds.........its a good deal.
 
K

klemgraphics

New Member
+1 to the acrylic urethane automotive

But if you really want the ultimate in fade resistance and price isn't of concern to some extent I would use top grade automotive base/clear. Not the value line either as it is junk, it should have a lifetime warranty when sprayed on a car.
 
OldPaint

OldPaint

New Member
lifetime is how long???? you listen to the hype to much.PEP BOY, AUTO ZONE, ACVANCED AUTO & ORIELY all offer LIFETIME WARRANTIES!!!! for all the good they are. i never buy into that, because i would rather pay a little more for OEM/NAPA replacement parts, do the job ONCE.....and be done with it. any good automotive SINGLE STAGE if its a non metalic color..........will last 5-8 years. i have seen the 2 stage not get that far. the problem is the clear coat being added as a 2nd layer. SINGLE STAGE paints HAVE THE CLEAR mixed into the formula!!!!!!! how do i know that, i mixed more automotive paint then you can imagine))))))))))))))))
 
G

GB2

Old Member
Interesting how no one had a word to say about latex....I would not use 1 Shot anymore for exterior work.....I would however, use a good quality acrylic latex paint, such as the line you are using. I have some red latex out in the field that is going on 3 years and it looks like new. Some of those latex paints now have warranties up to 25 years you know. I would also agree with everyone though that an auto quality paint or Mathews would be one of the most durable finishes you could apply.
 
iSign

iSign

New Member
cool... I just need the blood of the slaves that build my signs, & my reds will endure for lifetimes!!
 
SignManiac

SignManiac

New Member
Since it's a high caliber/paying client, acrylic urethane, but... Go the extra step and finish with a UV clear coat. Will last and hold up for many years. The clear makes a hugh difference.
 
visual800

visual800

Active Member
if I were doing this job I would prime with a black or marron latex flat and then a few coats of PITT TECH red or RUST SCAT red. One is pittsburg and the other is coronado. Both are awesome and last. one shot is crap!

mentiong one shot and durable in same sentence is not proper!
 
Joe Crumley

Joe Crumley

New Member
I'm with Joe on this topic. I just got into Nova Color and what a blessing. When ordering you should know their paint comes in opaque, translucent as well as transparent. Their opaque is dead on solid. A second coat isn't needed to cover but it's always advisable for longevity. I'll never go back to distillate based paints. Not even their clears. The MM clear is my choice for top coats.
 
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