3' x 12' Acrylic sign panel for a lighted sign

[phototec]

I have my first request to replace a 3' x 12' Acrylic sign panel for a lighted sign, I am planning on digitally printing on Orajet 3850 translucent media with my Roland SP540V eco-sol printer and then lamination with Oraguard 290 and apply the graphic onto the blank 3' x 10' Acrylic sign panel.
My question is, where can I purchase a blank sheet of 5' x 12' Acrylic sign panel?

I checked with my local Grimco (Austin TX), and all they have is 4' x 10'

I am located in Central Texas.

 

[Scotchbrite]

I would use .150 white polycarbonate plastic. Comes off a roll so length isn't an issue. They are fixed widths, so you're gonna end up with some drop. Sometimes I order from a width much bigger than needed to have usable drop.

 

[phototec]

I would use .150 white polycarbonate plastic. Comes off a roll so length isn't an issue. They are fixed widths, so you're gonna end up with some drop. Sometimes I order from a width much bigger than needed to have usable drop.

OK, Thanks, I did find that Grimco sells the 3/16" Polycarbonate plastic by the foot from the roll. They only have it in the translucent white, will that work and still be translucent using the Orajet 3850 with digitally printed graphics and laminated applied to the entire surface of the sign? Thanks

 

[Gino]

Yep.

 

[JBurton]

Yeah, all of our lit faces are white plastics with clear prints. Acrylic and Polycarbonate are the same thing in essence, but if you drop the poly, you'll just be fixing up scratched graphics, if you drop the acrylic you'll be picking up pieces and reordering the plastic. Poly yellows faster than acrylic for sure, but for my money, poly all day!

 

[phototec]

Yeah, all of our lit faces are white plastics with clear prints. Acrylic and Polycarbonate are the same thing in essence, but if you drop the poly, you'll just be fixing up scratched graphics, if you drop the acrylic you'll be picking up pieces and reordering the plastic. Poly yellows faster than acrylic for sure, but for my money, poly all day!

Thanks for the info. I have a Roland SP540V and only prints CMYK, I have never printed on clear because my printer doesn't print white ink, I have a roll of Orajet 3850, so if I double print the color graphics on the white 3850, laminate, and then apply to the white translucent Polycarbonate, the back lite sign will be ok?

If I were to print on clear (which I have never done before, which clear media should I use?

 

[tulsagraphics]

Use the recommended matching laminate for the 3850: https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/orajet-3850-translucent-cal
(scroll to the bottom to see the different options)

Printing on both the laminate and the translucent is my go-to method for these types of faces -- it works really well.

I also recommend polycarb over acrylic, hands down -- but it's a pain to cut so you should make sure to include the extra labor in your cost.
In my experience, regular circular saw blades don't work that well, but it can be done with a fine tooth blade and several layers of tape on both sides to reduce the chance for chipping (gotta cut it very slow). But I avoid that method anyway. Instead I prefer to use a cutoff wheel on a grinder. It melts it a little bit, but that extra flashing can be broken off easily with a putty knife.

 

[phototec]

Use the recommended matching laminate for the 3850: https://www.orafol.com/en/americas/products/orajet-3850-translucent-cal
(scroll to the bottom to see the different options)

Printing on both the laminate and the translucent is my go-to method for these types of faces -- it works really well.

I also recommend polycarb over acrylic, hands down -- but it's a pain to cut so you should make sure to include the extra labor in your cost.
In my experience, regular circular saw blades don't work that well, but it can be done with a fine tooth blade and several layers of tape on both sides to reduce the chance for chipping (gotta cut it very slow). But I avoid that method anyway. Instead I prefer to use a cutoff wheel on a grinder. It melts it a little bit, but that extra flashing can be broken off easily with a putty knife.

I don't understand this:

"Printing on both the laminate and the translucent is my go-to method for these types of faces"
I thought the clear over aminate provides the UV protection so the ink printed on the translucent vinyl does NOT fade, printing on top of the laminate would defeat this?

 

[weyandsign]

I'd print on the white trans. with double print as you said.

 

[Emidio]

I have my first request to replace a 3' x 12' Acrylic sign panel for a lighted sign, I am planning on digitally printing on Orajet 3850 translucent media with my Roland SP540V eco-sol printer and then lamination with Oraguard 290 and apply the graphic onto the blank 3' x 10' Acrylic sign panel.
My question is, where can I purchase a blank sheet of 5' x 12' Acrylic sign panel?

I checked with my local Grimco (Austin TX), and all they have is 4' x 10'

I am located in Central Texas.

We would use white poly. (thickness is your call) We would print one layer on clear vinyl and one layer on white trans vinyl. We laminate the white trans layer. Apply the clear layer on the poly first,(may need transfer tape) then register and apply the laminated white trans layer on top. This way the print does not look too dark during the day, at night the light shines through two layers of print so it does not look washed out.
We use Oracal print vinyls when available. 3651 for clear, 3850 trans white & 290 gloss laminate. all applied first surface.

 

[JBurton]

Thanks for the info. I have a Roland SP540V and only prints CMYK, I have never printed on clear because my printer doesn't print white ink, I have a roll of Orajet 3850, so if I double print the color graphics on the white 3850, laminate, and then apply to the white translucent Polycarbonate, the back lite sign will be ok?

So first of all, printing on clear for illuminated signage will work just fine as long as you use white plastic. The white plastic is all the white that your print needs. By printing on white and applying over white, you are going to cut down on light output. To avoid color washout, either print two images, one reversed, apply to the back of the panel, or print one in clear, apply, one in white, apply, but it will cut down on total light output. Printing on two layers of white will cut down on brightness too. It sticks out like a sore thumb when one tenant on a multi tenant sign has a white print on a white face with everyone else having clear prints.
For faces going in a trimmed cabinet, Arlon 4500G Clear (you have to spec clear as it also comes in trans white) works really well, paired with Arlon 3420, it just shrinks a bit over time, if the edges are in trim it won't be an issue. For live edges, Arlon 6000RP Clear is cast and pairs well with Arlon 3270.

 

[tulsagraphics]

I don't understand this:

"Printing on both the laminate and the translucent is my go-to method for these types of faces"
I thought the clear over aminate provides the UV protection so the ink printed on the translucent vinyl does NOT fade, printing on top of the laminate would defeat this?

Correct, the print on the laminate is exposed, but the color density makes up for some of the washout you'd otherwise get with a lot of eco-sol prints (perhaps too dense if anything, so some fading doesn't hurt it at all). It still lasts a very long time. I made my sign that way about 8 years ago (red and black graphics, facing south). Still looks like brand new.

 

[JBurton]

I just had a face roll in that reminded me of this! This is face is sitting on a light box. Some dummy used contour cut white translucent vinyl on a white face. This would have looked better in clear, or at least if they hadn't contour cut the vinyl so the whole face is evenly (albeit poorly) illuminated.