4x8 sign foam sign installation

[Signed Out]

Have a 4x8 single sided routed 1.5" sign foam3 sign to make and install between 2 wooden 4x4 existing posts. Will be subing out the routing to our local substrate supplier, we will be painting and installing the sign. We haven't done a sign like this yet so looking for advice.
What is the best way to mount the sign between the posts. I was thinking to fabricate an aluminum tube or angle frame, screwed and glued to the backside of the sign foam sign, and thru bolt the frame to the posts. Is that overkill? I haven't worked with this material before, is it rigid by itself? Is it rigid enough to just mount with just 2 aluminum angle irons vertically on the backside? Getting ready to submit my drawings to the router, just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something. Also I measuered the distance between the posts, 95.5" at the bottom of the sign and 95.75" at the top of the sign. Would 95.25" be a good width for teh sign, allowing for a little wiggle room? Any input would be great.

 

[Signed Out]

pretty please

 

[k.a.s.]

No, it's not ridged enough to mount between posts. A metal frame would be fine, or treated wood works fine. You might get away with just fastening into the back of the sign, but I always like to go through the sign. I just countersink the screws a bit then fill and paint the holes. A .5" is better than .25" IMO

Kevin

 

[Signed Out]

Thanks kevin. .5" is better for "wiggle room" is what you are saying?

 

[fresh]

Have you had it routed yet?
If not, have it routed singled sided on TWO different .75" panels, and then sandwich a piece of dibond between them. Install as you wish.

Another benefit to routing two panels is the time you save, you can work on each side at the same time. It sucks having to wait a day (or two or three) to flip it.

NM - Just adhere the signfoam to a more rigid substrate, and then install.

 

[Signed Out]

No I havent had it routed yet. That is a good idea, seems like it would save considerable time, but will probably cost quite a bit more to route 2 pieces rather than 1, well at least the shape for the backside piece. I'll check out the price difference.

 

[k.a.s.]

Yes I'm saying .5" is better. Also if you were doing a double sided sign putting dibond in between is fine, but since it is single sided a couple treated 2x4's would be fine.


Kevin

 

[Signed Out]

Ok so I'm sending the files to the router this morning. I'm going to revise to 90" width to allow .5" clearence. I plan on having the letters raised .5" from the background. Would you say that is a good depth?

 

[Signed Out]

One last thing. I posted the artwork for the sign. The text sheriff's and craig... has a gold stroke. Does that represent that the shoulder is to be painted gold, or that the stroke is to be raised as well? The black text is to be reflective vinyl. This job fell into my lap becasue of a falling out with another sign company.

 

[Eric H]

Your asking the forum what your artwork represents? How did you price it if you don't know how it was going to be constructed or painted?

 

[Signed Out]

This job sort of fell into our laps... We haven't done a routed and painted sign before... The price of the routing shouldn't and doesn't (because I checked) change based on whether the stroke in the artwrok is raised with the border/text or represents the shoulder of the raised border/text, very little difference to the router. I was asking because we were provided the artwork with minimal description/instruction and want to make the sign as best we can. That being said I have been doing a lot of research on sign foam3, how to work with it and paint etc. I'll be starting a thread soon about the procedure I come up with and look for tips and suggestions. Oh we decided that the stroke on the border represented the shoulder was to be painted gold, and that the gold stroke around the text was to be raised with the text as well as gold painted shoulders.