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5/8" clear plexi and fine scratches

gabagoo

gabagoo

New Member
I have to do 300 name plates on clear 5/8" plexi. The customer supplied the pieces and I have to cut a name in black vinyl and a blue 1 color logo. I then put this strip of blue along the bottom. I suppose these just sit on a reps desk. The pieces come in with the paper on both sides and after I peel the paper there is this brown junk jammed around the edges. I think it is some kind of buffing compound and I have to rub the stuff off fairly aggressively. Now I have done 30 of these gizmos and I held it up to the light and there are now all these fine scratches in the plexi. My question is how can I possibly avoid the scratching between squeeging the vinyl in place and having to rub this compound off. I tried using a kim wipe and still fine scratches. Is there a way to prevent it? I mean only when you hold it up to a light source is it detectable but I have already had a complaint on the sample we provided about a scratch, but never saw one before we sent it out and maybe she was reffering to the fine scratching.
I never should have touched this job, but I am stuck with it now.
What you think I can use that wont scratch.
 
Brandon708

Brandon708

New Member
gabagoo said:
I have to do 300 name plates on clear 5/8" plexi. The customer supplied the pieces and I have to cut a name in black vinyl and a blue 1 color logo. I then put this strip of blue along the bottom. I suppose these just sit on a reps desk. The pieces come in with the paper on both sides and after I peel the paper there is this brown junk jammed around the edges. I think it is some kind of buffing compound and I have to rub the stuff off fairly aggressively. Now I have done 30 of these gizmos and I held it up to the light and there are now all these fine scratches in the plexi. My question is how can I possibly avoid the scratching between squeeging the vinyl in place and having to rub this compound off. I tried using a kim wipe and still fine scratches. Is there a way to prevent it? I mean only when you hold it up to a light source is it detectable but I have already had a complaint on the sample we provided about a scratch, but never saw one before we sent it out and maybe she was reffering to the fine scratching.
I never should have touched this job, but I am stuck with it now.
What you think I can use that wont scratch.
Click to expand...

Use your thumb to apply the vinyl. It seems like they are small enough.
 
Letterbox Mike

Letterbox Mike

New Member
Use a felt-edged squeegee. Or try hitting them real quick after they're done with a torch to see if it polishes the scratches out. Don't linger with the flame long, just a couple really quick passes.

Or ask the customer if they are satisfactory as-is. If they are, you're good to go.
 
Circleville Signs

Circleville Signs

New Member
insignia said:
Use a felt-edged squeegee. Or try hitting them real quick after they're done with a torch to see if it polishes the scratches out. Don't linger with the flame long, just a couple really quick passes.

Or ask the customer if they are satisfactory as-is. If they are, you're good to go.
Click to expand...


Torch SHOULD do the trick. Other than that, apply the vinyl with an Oshee.


Gary
 
John Butto

John Butto

New Member
novus polish

www.novuspolish.com
I will first take off the paper and clean in running water to remove the compound residue left from polishing the edges, the water softens it up and does not leave fine scratches where you rubbed it. Use a felt or plastic applicator and do not let it touch the acrylic...only the transfer paper. After #200 you will probably be able to give some good advice.
 
gabagoo

gabagoo

New Member
yea thanks, I have the nuvopolish and yes it works but fak, I dont have that sort of time to do that, besides it does not do nice things to my vinyl.

They look great when they are placed on a desk and used as they are meant to be used....simple identification. But if you hold it up to a light source then of course you will see the fine scratches. Trying to keep finger prints off them is enough of a chore lol

I send them, if they are refused, then I ship them all their plexi and they can find another sucker.
 
J

John L

New Member
Novus does work but it can be time consuming.

This is the best little secret I have regarding fine scratches in acrylic.... http://www.clean-n-brite.biz/products.htm

I used that stuff on my eye glasses for years and it always worked really well to hide small scratches. My glasses are always a mess from drill shavings, welding, torching, grinding. They serve as my safety glasses most of the time.

We bought a bag of 100 of the little daubers and use them for everything plastic around here. Dab on, wipe off. I don't think they have silicone in them but make sure cause that could screw up your vinyl app.

Best of luck with it.
 
D

Dzrt1st

New Member
We use a 2" rubber roller for applying vinyl to acrylic or other flat substrates. It won't leave any scratches.

We've useg Brillianize for years to clean all our acrylic signs. It will clean and remove fine scratches. Just spray on and wipe off.
http://www.brillianize.com/

Todd
 

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astro8

astro8

New Member
You're in a tough spot.

Never remove the paper on the side that you're not going to be working.

You only have 2 options, either tell them the acrylic isn't finished cleanly of if you're too far into the job I would proceed as follows:

The brown stuff is either melted backing paper glue from a laser or rouge from a buffing wheel. Laser probably not large enough to get a good clean cut, you mentioned striations in a previuos post? (our next equipment purchase will hopefully be a 2kw Farley Laserlab)

Take 1 side of the paper off, cut your vinyl with enough premask to cover the whole side of the acrylic so you don't get squeegee scratches, squeegee down dry.

Remove premask from around edges that way you can still get a good hold on the acrylic without scratching it and get a cloth wet with turps or windex (test what dissolves the gunk better), run your cloth covered thumb or finger along the edge at a 45 so just a couple of millimetres runs along the face to remove the glue/compound...once to soften it and 2 or 3 to remove it. then again with a dry cloth. to remove any residue..there should be nothing left....Sounds involved but you can get through this pretty quickly.

We leave the side that still has the mask on it, if you remove it, you've just accepted ownership of that gunk and ensuing scratches. They should be getting the place that supplied the acrylic to removing this or accept some scratching from you.

Secret to working with acrylic is don't touch it.
 
gabagoo

gabagoo

New Member
astro8 said:
You're in a tough spot.

Never remove the paper on the side that you're not going to be working.

You only have 2 options, either tell them the acrylic isn't finished cleanly of if you're too far into the job I would proceed as follows:

The brown stuff is either melted backing paper glue from a laser or rouge from a buffing wheel. Laser probably not large enough to get a good clean cut, you mentioned striations in a previuos post? (our next equipment purchase will hopefully be a 2kw Farley Laserlab)

Take 1 side of the paper off, cut your vinyl with enough premask to cover the whole side of the acrylic so you don't get squeegee scratches, squeegee down dry.

Remove premask from around edges that way you can still get a good hold on the acrylic without scratching it and get a cloth wet with turps or windex (test what dissolves the gunk better), run your cloth covered thumb or finger along the edge at a 45 so just a couple of millimetres runs along the face to remove the glue/compound...once to soften it and 2 or 3 to remove it. then again with a dry cloth. to remove any residue..there should be nothing left....Sounds involved but you can get through this pretty quickly.

We leave the side that still has the mask on it, if you remove it, you've just accepted ownership of that gunk and ensuing scratches. They should be getting the place that supplied the acrylic to removing this or accept some scratching from you.

Secret to working with acrylic is don't touch it.
Click to expand...


I have to strip the paper off both sides as the logo goes on the reverse side, but the left over compound has to be wiped off as I have to put a strip of blue on the underside of the plexi and the brown stuff is all over the place. I like the idea of using the latex gloves and I have them for cleaning my printer
 
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