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a heat gun for me?

max

New Member
hello all.... am having a bit of a problem getting a reliable reading from my laser thermometer when post heating after wrapping parts on a vehicle. but i am seeing in the cowboy catalog some fandangled heat guns that you can dial up the exact temp that is needed to set the vinyl without burning the vinyl. so this means that you can dial it to say 200 degrees aand you are guaranteed that the vinyl wont get over 200 degrees even if you just hold the gun still without moving it? can that be so? i was wondering if anyone uses this type heat gun and does it take the guess work out of postheating or (setting) the vinyl after installing.... thanks sssoooo much for any help
:thankyou:
 

Moze

Active Member
hello all.... am having a bit of a problem getting a reliable reading from my laser thermometer when post heating after wrapping parts on a vehicle. but i am seeing in the cowboy catalog some fandangled heat guns that you can dial up the exact temp that is needed to set the vinyl without burning the vinyl. so this means that you can dial it to say 200 degrees aand you are guaranteed that the vinyl wont get over 200 degrees even if you just hold the gun still without moving it? can that be so? i was wondering if anyone uses this type heat gun and does it take the guess work out of postheating or (setting) the vinyl after installing.... thanks sssoooo much for any help
:thankyou:

I don't do wraps, but I think this is one of the best guns on the market. Adjustable in 50° increments from 150° to 1100°, LCD display, kickstand, hanging loop. I have it and don't have any complaints.

DeWalt D26960
 

max

New Member
Moze, do you set the temperature on your Dewalt to the ideal temperature and then don't worry about burning the vinyl? even if you barely move the heat gun?
Thanks
 

Moze

Active Member
I don't do wraps, so I haven't used it in the way your asking about, so I can't really answer your question.
 

rjssigns

Active Member
IIRC Master Heat has a new heat gun with integrated surface heat reading/laser. Set your desired temp on the readout and the laser shows where you are heating and how hot it's getting.
 

nashvillesigns

Making America great, one sign at a time.
heat gun

my two cents?

1. avoid Harbor Fright heat gun.
2. a plumbers torch is aways fun.
3. i bought a wagner paintstrip/heat gun. i used these in the past and they are AWESOME.
4. 775 bucks for THAT? Think i will do number three and take a weekend getaway.

-mosher
 

Jester1167

Premium Subscriber
You don't want to set your heat gun to 200 degrees for post heating or you will be there all day trying to get the vehicle and vinyl up to temp. As long as the vinyl is in contact with the vehicle it can take a tremendous amount of heat. If you have bubbles or loose edges, that's where you will have problems. Under bubbles the air heats up, expands, blows the vinyl up like a balloon.

If you're have trouble with bubbles in the channels try running you heat gun ahead 2 or 3 times your post heating speed and they will expand and expose themselves. Now you can pop them and go back to where you left off post heating. Also, it is faster to work vertical seams or door edges from bottom to top because heat rises in the metal preheating the area ahead (this is also a good rule of thumb for removals).

I use a Steinel heat gun set to 1150 deg F with the IR thermometer to get a feel for the speed of travel. Then use the IR to spot check the surface temps from time to time. The IR thermometer is important because the speed for post heating is different on every install. The air temperature, sun or shade, temperature of the vehicle, type of material (plastic, fiberglass, aluminum, steel), and the temperature of the heat gun all play a part in determining how long it takes to reach 200 - 220 degees.

There are some areas that you do need to be careful with your heat gun. You can melt the black plastic moldings. You can avoid this by positioning your heat gun father away from the plastic and focus on heating the metal with it blowing away from plastic. The heat will spread out toward the plastic. Another area is where the plastic bumper meets the metal body panel. Vinyl on plastic can't take as much heat so focus more on the metal body panel and the plastic will get plenty of heat. If not you can heat it separately checking with your IR thermometer.

Hope this helps.
 

worthy1

New Member
+1 to Jester's comments

I have an expensive heatgun that you can turn up and down and to be honest it is annoying waiting for it to heat up everytime you turn it on. Much prefer the instant heat of a cheap gun. Having said that no matter which gun you choose you need an IR gun, a quality one to not a $10 jobby off ebay.

You will be suprised how some areas are quick to heat up to temp and others take a while, this is why the IR gun is essential to ensuring its done properly. You also measure the temp after applying the heat. As you can imagine if your measuring the same spot the heat us blowing on (at the same time) your reading will be false as as soon as you move the heat away it will drop to the temp it really got to. This is due to the laser mixing the surface temp and the hot air from the gun together for its reading. Personally i heat an area to around 110 (celsius sorry not sure the farenheight conversion) and as soon as heat is off i find it drops nicely to the required 80-90 range, that of course is for the setting i have my heatgun set to.
 

AceSignsOnline

New Member
I have several heat guns and torches. The one that I use the most happens to be a $40 unit that I purchased at Harbor Freight. If I could do away with the power cord, I'd never even look at other heating options.
 

Kentucky Wraps

Kentucky Wraps
It's impossible to achieve correct vinyl temps by a setting on a heat gun.
That changes with
• Distance you hold the gun
• Duration you stay in one spot
• Heating areas on plastic vs fiberglass vs steel vs aluminum etc.
So that is why a setting on the gun won't guarantee anything.
The ONLY possible way to know what the temp of the vinyl is, is by using an IR thermometer.
 

biggmann

New Member
I have a Makita HG1100 heat gun and wouldnt use anything else. It heats up quickly and has never failed me but once after repeated drops a small part in the switch came loose so I went online (and this is the best part) i was able to order the part to fix it. If anything on this heat gun breaks you can buy a replacement part. As for the temp for post heating I would get a laser thermometer and hold the heat gun on one hand and the thermometer in the other and get it to 180 degrees and just move along keeping that pace. I looked at the new fancy heat gun but for $500 + I think ill pass.

On a side note I also took the heat gun apart and took off the factory plug and wired in a 50 foot extension cord, no more searching for the cords now lol.
 

phototec

New Member
The ProHeat STC PH-1600 is awesome and automatically adjust the temperature to keep it constant, see video.

[video=youtube;NSZ4YpFdEXo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSZ4YpFdEXo[/video]
 

max

New Member
has anyone happen to have bought and tried out the master 1600 heat gun and are able to attest to its claims of being fool proof and being able to just set the desired temp and point teh gun at the vinyl and not ever worrying about melting the vinyl. seems somewhat unlikely to me but technology has definitely proved me wrong before...
thanks for any input
 
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