Need Help About JV33-130 Solvent Ink Machine

[straycats]

Nice to meet you, wonderful seniors and teachers!

I love the JV33 that mimaki threw away, and I spend my days looking for ways to repair and maintain it.
So I came here hoping to get some wisdom and advice from my seniors.

Currently, including the broken model, I have three JV33-130s with solvent ink specifications, one JV-33-130 with water-based pig specifications, two JV33-160s, and one JV150-130.
So I would like to ask for your advice and wisdom.

I would like to change my water-based JV33 to a solvent-based JV33 ink. What steps would I need to take?

I would like to change my water-based JV33 because it still has a short operating time.
From my limited knowledge, I have heard that the manifold, gasket, and damper are different for solvent ink specifications and water-based specifications.

Also, since the head voltage is different, it seems that I will need to change the presets and parameters, so I would like some advice on the procedure for changing from water-based ink to solvent ink.

I would appreciate it if you could explain in detail how to change it.

My second question is about the JV33 I currently own, which has a long cumulative operating time and is worn but still in use, and another JV33 with a short cumulative operating time but no head.

So I would like to transfer the JV33 with the long cumulative operating time to a machine with a short operating time.
In this case, will it work properly if I just transfer the head assembly and main board PCB? Are there any other parts or procedures that need to be changed?

Teachers, please lend your wisdom to this lost lamb.

Thank you!

 

[WBS]

Nice to meet you, wonderful seniors and teachers!

I love the JV33 that mimaki threw away, and I spend my days looking for ways to repair and maintain it.
So I came here hoping to get some wisdom and advice from my seniors.

Currently, including the broken model, I have three JV33-130s with solvent ink specifications, one JV-33-130 with water-based pig specifications, two JV33-160s, and one JV150-130.
So I would like to ask for your advice and wisdom.

I would like to change my water-based JV33 to a solvent-based JV33 ink. What steps would I need to take?

I would like to change my water-based JV33 because it still has a short operating time.
From my limited knowledge, I have heard that the manifold, gasket, and damper are different for solvent ink specifications and water-based specifications.

Also, since the head voltage is different, it seems that I will need to change the presets and parameters, so I would like some advice on the procedure for changing from water-based ink to solvent ink.

I would appreciate it if you could explain in detail how to change it.

My second question is about the JV33 I currently own, which has a long cumulative operating time and is worn but still in use, and another JV33 with a short cumulative operating time but no head.

So I would like to transfer the JV33 with the long cumulative operating time to a machine with a short operating time.
In this case, will it work properly if I just transfer the head assembly and main board PCB? Are there any other parts or procedures that need to be changed?

Teachers, please lend your wisdom to this lost lamb.

Thank you!

Bin the lot and go buy a jv 330 or 200 and earn some money instead of fixing rubbish, the new models are sooooo much better

 

[straycats]

Bin the lot and go buy a jv 330 or 200 and earn some money instead of fixing rubbish, the new models are sooooo much better

Sorry.
I wrote it wrong.
I'm not repairing trash.

To be precise, I said that I like the JV33, for which Mimaki has discontinued warranty and repairs and abandoned its users.

We are a very small sign shop and cannot afford to change to a new model, so we want to cherish the JV33 that we were finally able to buy at the time.

 

[Smoke_Jaguar]

Printers go obsolete like any other tech. Even if everything was still in production, they would be dumb to keep building a printer that couldn't keep up or deliver the quality/speed of modern printers of the size/weight. That said, the older the machine, as with pretty much any machine, the more service it will need, the harder parts will be to find, and the amount of support available will be scant unless willing to pay a lot.

That said, I do not really work on JV33's, but here's what I'd recommend. First, leave the head alone, they are fragile and swapping them from machine to machine and changing ink types can be somewhat risky. While not cheap, if rebuilding a machine with no head, your best bet is simply to get a new head from it, instead of tearing down a working printer and potentially turning 1/2 working printers into 0/2. As for changing inks, Count on new dampers at the very least. Flush the ink with needed flushing solution currently in the machine, drain the flush, remove dampers, use flush for new ink type and flush lines, install dampers, install heads, run new flush through heads with a couple cleaning cycles, install new ink set, flush/fill new ink.

I hope this helps, and the best machine for the job is the one you have that can do it.

 

[WBS]

Sorry.
I wrote it wrong.
I'm not repairing trash.

To be precise, I said that I like the JV33, for which Mimaki has discontinued warranty and repairs and abandoned its users.

We are a very small sign shop and cannot afford to change to a new model, so we want to cherish the JV33 that we were finally able to buy at the time.

Trying to repair this machine is false economy, if you can not afford a new printer, you really need to think about out sourcing you print work
12,000 for a new machine over a 3 year right off is 4000 per year and if you are not doing this, its not worth owning a printer, not trying to be harsh but some times the time you use fixing and caring for an obsolete machine could be spent on marketing your business and increasing your turnover, plus the new 330 or 200 are so much better in quality

 

[hybriddesign]

I miss my old JV33's... they were tanks

-I don't think you need to change any head voltages when going from solvent to aqueous. If it was originally an aqueous printer (pigment ink etc) then you might need to replace the head but ask someone else on that as I'm not sure. I've converted 3-4 JV33s back and forth but we always started with solvent machines and then we were going to dye sub ink and then back again.

-do you know what the machines were originally setup as? If they were set up as solvent printers (I think most JV33's sold in the US were probably originally solvent) then all you need to do is completely flush the lines and heads with flush for whatever ink is the in the machine currently (if it's currently solvent then flush with solvent, etc). Flush all the ink out and then start flushing with flush for whatever new ink type you're going to use. Once the system is filled completely with the flush for the new ink you're going to use you can go ahead and put in new dampers and fill it up with the new ink. You need to be 100% sure that all the flushing fluid from the old ink set is out of the machine or you'll kill your head when you fill it with new ink.

-change the settings in your rip to reflect the new ink set and if you changed any color channels and that's it.