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Acuity LED 1600

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HristoH

New Member
Hello,

our Fuji printer seems to loose Y ink really fast and can't figure out why. It starts off normal and then after a couple of minutes of printing it gradually starts to fade quite noticeably. When you pause it and let it rest for a second, it starts off good again but then it starts fading right away.
The test print before printing is fine, the head gap is fine, the negative and positive pressure are in range, ink tubes are fine, we've wiped the printhead thoroughly with solution, nothing seems to give better results.

Any ideas?


IMG_20211220_151400014.jpg
 
Last edited:
Zoogee World

Zoogee World

Domed Promotional Product Supplier
I'm not familiar with these printers, but if they are anything like My Roland's, it could be the dampers or cap tops. I would also make sure the ink cartridge doesn't have a negative suction on it either.
 
A

AlsEU

New Member
It may be a problem with the ink delivery or the false air in the ink system. Do you have degassing modules installed (sometimes they are being removed from the printer)? When you did replace the ink filter in the Y channel for the last time? Are there any leaks inside the carriage or near the ink pumps? Is the Y ink pump rotor rotating freely? What about the ink pump cover - any cracks? How the degas pressure pump (the louder one) works - short time once per some time or it's always (or almost always) on? And of course what about the sending adjust calibration, as previously asked?
 
ProColorGraphics

ProColorGraphics

New Member
Not sure where you are located, but if you need parts, let me know. I have a bunch left over and I am getting ready to list them for sale.
 
H

HristoH

New Member
Zoogee World said:
I'm not familiar with these printers, but if they are anything like My Roland's, it could be the dampers or cap tops. I would also make sure the ink cartridge doesn't have a negative suction on it either.
Click to expand...
The cap tops on the Acuity do not function like the Roland's. I don't think they have any effect on printing at all. Dampers could be.

ProColorGraphics said:
Could be a dampr. Have you done a sending adjust recently? Definitely looks like its starts starving for ink.
Click to expand...
I ran the sending adjust 3 times, didn't have any effect on it.

AlsEU said:
It may be a problem with the ink delivery or the false air in the ink system. Do you have degassing modules installed (sometimes they are being removed from the printer)? When you did replace the ink filter in the Y channel for the last time? Are there any leaks inside the carriage or near the ink pumps? Is the Y ink pump rotor rotating freely? What about the ink pump cover - any cracks? How the degas pressure pump (the louder one) works - short time once per some time or it's always (or almost always) on? And of course what about the sending adjust calibration, as previously asked?
Click to expand...
There was no air in the Y channel. I'm not familiar with degassing modules, I'm not sure if there is one installed. Ink filter on the Y channel seems clean, though I don't remember it being replaced. No leaks near pumps or in carriage. The pump rotor moves freely, the covers are brand new, the tubes aren't swollen or soft. The degas pressure pump rarely turns on and when it does is for a few seconds. Running the sending adjust a few times didn't give any positive results.

I guess I'm left with the damper option. Could it have something to do with subtank?
 
ProColorGraphics

ProColorGraphics

New Member
Could have the subtank sensor getting stuck. Is the clear vacuum line/filter that goes from the top of the printhead to the 8way valve switch clear?
 
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AlsEU

New Member
HristoH said:
There was no air in the Y channel. I'm not familiar with degassing modules, I'm not sure if there is one installed. Ink filter on the Y channel seems clean, though I don't remember it being replaced. No leaks near pumps or in carriage. The pump rotor moves freely, the covers are brand new, the tubes aren't swollen or soft. The degas pressure pump rarely turns on and when it does is for a few seconds. Running the sending adjust a few times didn't give any positive results.

I guess I'm left with the damper option. Could it have something to do with subtank?
Click to expand...

Do you know, how to enter the service menu (options begins with #)? There's a test menu there, where you can check if the ink level sensor in each channel works (should show one of three ink levels - High, Full or Low). Maybe the sensor in the Y is stuck in the F position and the ink pump is not being started when the ink goes out of the subtank.
 
H

HristoH

New Member
AlsEU said:
Do you know, how to enter the service menu (options begins with #)? There's a test menu there, where you can check if the ink level sensor in each channel works (should show one of three ink levels - High, Full or Low). Maybe the sensor in the Y is stuck in the F position and the ink pump is not being started when the ink goes out of the subtank.
Click to expand...

I got to the service menu and under #Test, the ones that make sense are "Check Ink IC" and "Check Subtank Sensor".
Under "Check Ink IC" when I select the 6th ink (Y) it starts counting to infinity with no futher message
IMG_20211222_100430527.jpg


Under "Checnk subtank sensor", all I get is this message and all I can do is go back
IMG_20211222_094353195.jpg
 
A

AlsEU

New Member
First of all - check parameters stored in the #PARAMETER-SYSTEM PARAMETERS - 62 to 69. Any values above 500 or below 200 are wrong (below 200 means that there is a problem with the ink flow, above 500 is usually with many nozzles clogged. You may also check the ink delivery using #TEST-SENDING TEST - choose two channels (Y and any other except W and Cl), then press ENTER a few times (all further values should be the default) and compare the time when ink sensors in both channels changing the status (the printer will remove the ink from subtanks and then refill them back). Don't forget to empty the waste tank first...
After these tests give results here, I'll try to tell you more.
 
H

HristoH

New Member
AlsEU said:
First of all - check parameters stored in the #PARAMETER-SYSTEM PARAMETERS - 62 to 69. Any values above 500 or below 200 are wrong (below 200 means that there is a problem with the ink flow, above 500 is usually with many nozzles clogged. You may also check the ink delivery using #TEST-SENDING TEST - choose two channels (Y and any other except W and Cl), then press ENTER a few times (all further values should be the default) and compare the time when ink sensors in both channels changing the status (the printer will remove the ink from subtanks and then refill them back). Don't forget to empty the waste tank first...
After these tests give results here, I'll try to tell you more.
Click to expand...

Under system parameters:
62 = -540 (Z RL AJ)
63 = 530 (Z PtmAJ)
64 = 0 (Reserve)
65 = 340 (SPmp1n1)
66 = 518 (SPmp2n1)
67 = 636 (SPmp3n1)
68 = 586 (SPmp4n1)
69 = 641 (SPmp5n1)

And it looks like I can adjust all of these values.

As for the SENDING TEST:

1.png
2.png




And here's photos of the test print before printing and after:
beforeafter.jpg
 
A

AlsEU

New Member
Value for the C channel is good, for the Y is too high. Don't adjust them manually (I know it's possible, but don't do that). Again - seems that there's a false air in the system. Usually, it's pain in the ass, as it's difficult to find the loosen connection. Try to follow all ink and vacuum tubings from the head to the ink pump, check all connectors, also on the degas modules (black plastic tubes inside the carriage, on the left side, under the metal cover). It's also possible to swap ink tubings between two heads and check if the problem moves (this means, that it's somewhere in the ink delivery system) or it will stay in the Y head (which means, that it's in the head itself or in the ink vacuum system), but it would require a lot of head cleaning (mixed inks will contaminate colours). It's doable but time-consuming.
 
H

HristoH

New Member
Hi again,

Bad news, it turns out I'll have to replace the print head. Can I get some help with making the right choice?

I'll need to look for "Dimatix Emerald QE-256/30 AAA" if I understand correctly. Browsing for it, gives me some choices with various price ranges. Any advice on what I should be looking for would be appreciated.
 
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AlsEU

New Member
QE256/30 is the correct head if you replace W or CL head (they shot 30 pl drops). All other heads shot 10 pl drops, so you need QE256/10. And don't forget, that when you just lose the head screws, you may need head calibrations to return to the proper printing quality.
 
H

HristoH

New Member
AlsEU said:
QE256/30 is the correct head if you replace W or CL head (they shot 30 pl drops). All other heads shot 10 pl drops, so you need QE256/10. And don't forget, that when you just lose the head screws, you may need head calibrations to return to the proper printing quality.
Click to expand...
Is there a difference between QE-256/10 AAA and QS-256/10 AAA?
 
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