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Alumalite between 2 posts
- Thread starter j.studley
- Start date
Gino
Premium Subscriber
No offense, but this is just going from the frying pan into the flames, fast.
You are going to put/instal stud or pad lettering on a substrate installed in such a fashion ?? Out of sincere curiosity, how is this sign being used ??
3D letters are usually reserved for very nice instalations like to a wall, a monument type sign or some sort of classy sign. Not an over-sized post and panel set up.
I know you said you are new to this industry, but how in the world did you land a job with expensive letters mounted to a piece of aluminum composite ?? Maybe I shouldn't've asked that question, but I just needed to know. Any pictures of the proposed sign in question ??
You are going to put/instal stud or pad lettering on a substrate installed in such a fashion ?? Out of sincere curiosity, how is this sign being used ??
3D letters are usually reserved for very nice instalations like to a wall, a monument type sign or some sort of classy sign. Not an over-sized post and panel set up.
I know you said you are new to this industry, but how in the world did you land a job with expensive letters mounted to a piece of aluminum composite ?? Maybe I shouldn't've asked that question, but I just needed to know. Any pictures of the proposed sign in question ??
HAHAHA! Funny part is I am only doing as customer requested. They did the design from posts to requesting dimensional lettering. The shadowing is simply to show dimension. Again, I have nothing to do with design except for materials used. So my plan was---Gemini formed plastic, stud mount, blue paint with digital print of globe image (lej-640 uv ink) with possible clear cote.
John Butto
New Member
You would be better off with flat cutout white acrylic letters (trans border) and VHB tape with silicone to attach. But running a long piece of material between two posts without bracing, as everyone has told you, is not a great idea. And you as a professional should tell the customer of the outcome.
John Butto
New Member
You covered it by a 1x4 (which is .75" thick, unless you rip it yourself to 1" thickness) with a .5" slot. And if it is wood, it will bow on a 10' span from changes in temps and time. This is an expensive sign, demensional copy, nice posts, installation, digital print, doublesided. You need to think this out a little better or you will be posting on here about how to collect your money and crying the blues.
John Butto
New Member
No screws, adhesive applied to frame and panels to make it look clean. Go to advance search for adhesives.
2B
Active Member
Stud mounts into Alumalite is NOT the best situation. Stud mounts are designed for solid substrate (bricks, wood, concrete, etc... ) that allows the studs to be inserted into. The hollow core of the Alumalite will not allow the adhesive the hold to anything.
you are better off with a solid dimensional letters, like mentioned acrylic, and use VHB & silicone for installation.
Why was Alumalite speced for this sign? you are dealing with (what now appears based on the details) a high end pole sign.
Alumalite in our experience is VERY easy to dent the surface. DiBond is a MUCH better substrate, comes in 3MM or 6MM thickness. Still use the frame idea with signs on each side
you are better off with a solid dimensional letters, like mentioned acrylic, and use VHB & silicone for installation.
Why was Alumalite speced for this sign? you are dealing with (what now appears based on the details) a high end pole sign.
Alumalite in our experience is VERY easy to dent the surface. DiBond is a MUCH better substrate, comes in 3MM or 6MM thickness. Still use the frame idea with signs on each side
Gino
Premium Subscriber
Based upon what I had mentioned and others have insinuated, I believe with a few minor changes, you can still do what you want, just not a post & panel set up.
Ya need beefier posts and lower to the ground. Those letters lend themselves to a rather stable type sign and need some foundation to be a part of. You could even change it from a rectangle to a slightly contour shape to make it more aesthetically pleasing.
Ya need beefier posts and lower to the ground. Those letters lend themselves to a rather stable type sign and need some foundation to be a part of. You could even change it from a rectangle to a slightly contour shape to make it more aesthetically pleasing.
Alumalite was recommended to me by the company that sells the substrates. My original idea was with dibond but the salesman that distributes the stuff sold me otherwise. I haven't purchased anything yet but I think I like the dibond idea as well. Dibond and omega bond are the same right?
2B
Active Member
Omega Board = hardwood core board (usually 1/2")
DiBond = rigid PVC core (3mm or 6mm) with aluminum skin 2 sided
Alumalite = CorPlast Core (usally 10mm) with aluminum skin 2 sided
go to this site, they have a good comparison of substrates. They also will send samples of each so you can see/feel the difference
http://www.laminatorsinc.com/signs/sign-panel-products
I have the samples in hand and as stated on the product descriptions one is omega-bond (solid plastic core) and the other is omega signboard (plywood core). I've heard of Di-Bond as well so I just wanted to make sure it was the same as omega-bond. Thanks again all for the great info! The customer is working with-in a budget so I'm trying to get them something that represents my craftsmanship based on there design but keeps with-in their budget. I like the idea of beefing up the posts a bit. As far as stability--think 6 x 6 posts using the 2 panels with framework will suffice?