• I want to thank all the members that have upgraded your accounts. I truly appreciate your support of the site monetarily. Supporting the site keeps this site up and running as a lot of work daily goes on behind the scenes. Click to Support Signs101 ...

aluminum sign displayed on swinging sign frame question

JERHEMI

New Member
I have a client who is interested in a 24" x 36" aluminum sign that will be displayed very frequently from a swinging sign frame. He mentioned the sign will be "swinging" very often and will be exposed to harsh weather conditions with high winds throughout the year and wants the best solution as far as the holes on the sign so it swings freely and are strong so they don't get distorted or stretched by the constant "swinging" motion of the sign. If this were a banner I'd install some grommets and call it a day, but since aluminum is rigid a standard grommet press and grommets won't be able to secure properly to aluminum. Are their any grommet-sort-of-solution out there for rigid signs? I'm imagining a solution something like an earring where you insert one end through the hole on one side of the sign then on the other side of the sign you screw in the opposite end that has a hole in the center? Any ideas? Thanks
 
I would use a bracket like this or something similar. You can make your own or flatten the one in the link to fit your aluminum. Bolt it solid to your sign and let the sign swing from the bracket so there is no wear on the aluminum.
 

Gino

Premium Subscriber
What thickness aluminum will you be using for this sign ??

If it's gonna take the abuse you're speaking of, then I'd seriously consider .063 or .080. Anything less and your holes will slowly become oblong from the abuse directed towards an inferior substrate.

The product Finish displayed is more for something 1/2" like MDO or whatever. To help re-enforce the holes, I would use a piece of .080, folded back over itself and screw it fast. In theory, it would be like adding a gusset to a banner, but to the area of where the holes will be in a metal sign.
 

JERHEMI

New Member
That's looking like a good solution! Any other places you know of that sell them that have a larger hole? The frame is "heavy duty" and comes with a heavier s-hook to hook to sign...I don't want to have to drill those holes larger if I don't have to. Thanks!

I would use a bracket like this or something similar. You can make your own or flatten the one in the link to fit your aluminum. Bolt it solid to your sign and let the sign swing from the bracket so there is no wear on the aluminum.
 

JERHEMI

New Member
Planning on actually using 3mm "Max Metal" from Grimco. It's strong, but lightweight.

What thickness aluminum will you be using for this sign ??

If it's gonna take the abuse you're speaking of, then I'd seriously consider .063 or .080. Anything less and your holes will slowly become oblong from the abuse directed towards an inferior substrate.

The product Finish displayed is more for something 1/2" like MDO or whatever. To help re-enforce the holes, I would use a piece of .080, folded back over itself and screw it fast. In theory, it would be like adding a gusset to a banner, but to the area of where the holes will be in a metal sign.
 

Pat Whatley

New Member
Planning on actually using 3mm "Max Metal" from Grimco. It's strong, but lightweight.

You're gonna be much, much better off with a solid aluminum .063 or .080 panel, even if you're adding grommets. I cut Max Metal with a utility knife....if I can to that easily it's not strong.

Use the aluminum and put a shackle in it. Replace the rod in the shackle with a regular bolt, tighten the bolt so the two sides of the shackle pinch together on the sign, then hang your sign from the shackle. It changes the stress point from being on the soft aluminum to being on the steel shackle. It'll be there forever.

If you insist on using the Max Metal add a mending plate to each side and screw those together. It will spread the stress across the length of the plate instead of just on the hole.
 

Attachments

  • sha.jpg
    sha.jpg
    11.2 KB · Views: 138

ChicagoGraphics

New Member
You can put a grommet in 0.80 aluminum just need to pre drill a hole first. Max metal is not the best material for a hanging real estate sign.
 

JERHEMI

New Member
Wouldn't the shackle be facing the wrong direction to match up with the s-hook? I'm imagining if I wanted the sign to swing side to side this work, but I want it to swing forward to reverse. Let me know if I'm missing something! :help
You're gonna be much, much better off with a solid aluminum .063 or .080 panel, even if you're adding grommets. I cut Max Metal with a utility knife....if I can to that easily it's not strong.

Use the aluminum and put a shackle in it. Replace the rod in the shackle with a regular bolt, tighten the bolt so the two sides of the shackle pinch together on the sign, then hang your sign from the shackle. It changes the stress point from being on the soft aluminum to being on the steel shackle. It'll be there forever.

If you insist on using the Max Metal add a mending plate to each side and screw those together. It will spread the stress across the length of the plate instead of just on the hole.
 

Pat Whatley

New Member
If you're using a bracket with a screw in screw eye you simply rotate the eye 90 degrees. If you're using s-hooks bend one complete loop of the s-hook 90 degrees.
 

Craig Sjoquist

New Member
There WHERE 2 Alum. swinging signs few blocks away both mounted about the same.

FAIL they lasted about 3-6 mths. before they attach to fence, both thick alum about 1/4"

One was attach correctly before lasted decades before needed repaint.

When they mounted I knew they would not last..WHY because in order for Alum. sign to hold up you need to sandwich the Alum. in metal bars, bolted together, then Alum. will stay straight and not wear when swinging over time.
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
3-4mm dibond takes a grommet nicely

dibond will shred in no time.


i just made one last week. i used .080, put it in my break and put a 1" bend on top, put eye-bolts in the top with a nut and washer to sandwich the .080 and put some lock tite on it. hooked the eyebolts onto the existing sign frame hanger and crimped the s-hooks closed.

i have tried all the other ideas, and eventually the aluminum fails. the bend takes all the stress out of the mounting holes...

2012-05-09 16.36.58.jpg
 

JERHEMI

New Member
Looks good! Another question...where do you guys get your 24"x36".080 blanks with square corners, no holes and white on both sides? Grimco doesn't stock these blanks, but can do them "custom". Also, Grimco doesn't even have .080 4x8 sheets available for me to make my own blanks. They have lighter gauge but not .080 what's up with that?

dibond will shred in no time.


i just made one last week. i used .080, put it in my break and put a 1" bend on top, put eye-bolts in the top with a nut and washer to sandwich the .080 and put some lock tite on it. hooked the eyebolts onto the existing sign frame hanger and crimped the s-hooks closed.

i have tried all the other ideas, and eventually the aluminum fails. the bend takes all the stress out of the mounting holes...

View attachment 77304
 

ddarlak

Go Bills!
i'm assuming chicagoland is chicago, there has to be a local sign supplier that delivers sheet stock.

i'm in niagara falls and i have two.
 
You're gonna be much, much better off with a solid aluminum .063 or .080 panel, even if you're adding grommets. I cut Max Metal with a utility knife....if I can to that easily it's not strong.

Use the aluminum and put a shackle in it. Replace the rod in the shackle with a regular bolt, tighten the bolt so the two sides of the shackle pinch together on the sign, then hang your sign from the shackle. It changes the stress point from being on the soft aluminum to being on the steel shackle. It'll be there forever.

If you insist on using the Max Metal add a mending plate to each side and screw those together. It will spread the stress across the length of the plate instead of just on the hole.

:U Rock:
 
We get all of our .080 aluminum blanks from Hall Signs at store.hallsigns.com. They will do your blanks raw with no rounded corners and no holes and their prices are great, in my opinion. Then just cover it with white cast vinyl and go from there. That's pretty much how we "paint" them.
 
I have used the brackets Finishline recommended with stainless steel locknuts and bolts,tightened brackets until flat on substrate,and that has proven to be successful for several years,how ever I place in the contract that the customer has the responsibility to inspect hanging hardware periodically due to ware.
 

visual800

Active Member
I would use a bracket like this or something similar. You can make your own or flatten the one in the link to fit your aluminum. Bolt it solid to your sign and let the sign swing from the bracket so there is no wear on the aluminum.

do this hangar and use at least .063 for the aluminum you should be fine
 
Top